Warm weather at last!

[clocker]

After months of brutal, depressing cold, spring has finally sprung and I took maximum advantage of the nice weather.

Since buying my new car in December, I've been hoarding parts and waiting for the opportunity to install them.
This weekend I began.

Bright and early yesterday (Sun.) I put the car up on stands and pulled the wheels.
Crawling under the chassis, I undid the speedo cable and then went into the cabin and removed the gauge cluster (it's sooo much easier with slack in the cable, you see...).
All this in preparation for installing the new Indiglo gauge faces and painting the indicator needles.
The stock orange/black gauges are hard on my old eyes at night and I'm hoping these bluish/white faces will be less taxing. If not, I have another stock cluster I can reinstall.

Whilst waiting for the needles to dry I put in a new fuel filter and lines, spark plugs and wires and cleaned the grounds in the engine bay.

Upon reassembly of the gauge cluster I also installed a Grant mahogany steering wheel- I had one in my 240Z and really liked it.
Cockpit now looks like so...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-Gauges.jpg
Should be interesting to see (!!) how that works out.

Next up were the hydraulics...all of 'em.
First was the clutch system- new master, slave and braided steel flex hose.
That was simple and I finished the day optimistically.

Up today were the brakes...again (almost) all new- rotors, braided lines, master cylinder, vacuum booster and rebuilt calipers (stock NA in the rear and upgrade to 4-piston Turbos in the front).
Rear done...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-Rear.jpg
And the front...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-Front.jpg.
The front rotors really kicked my ass, almost welded to the hubs and required (seemingly) endless beating from the rear with a brass mallet to break them free.
Never in all my days have I worked so hard to get a set of rotors off a bloody car...I'm guessing these might be the originals and have been getting settled in for the past 16 years, cause they surely didn't want to leave.
Perseverance paid off however and I was on to the engine bay for the rest of the system.
Here's the firewall cleaned up and ready for the booster and master cylinder...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-Clean.jpg
And the rest of the hydraulics installed...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-Hydraulics.jpg
Bleeding was boring but went smoothly and at last I was again on the road.
Tomorrow on the way to work I'll detour to a place that will allow a couple of sustained braking maneuvers and begin to bed in the new Hawk brake pads.
Next weekend I'll rebleed the brakes and should be good to go.

Up next is a Racing Beat catback exhaust but first I have to scrounge up the heatshields that are missing (thanks for nothing, previous owners...).

[S!X]

Looks like you'll have a fun project on your hands. What kind of car it btw?

[clocker]

1991 Mazda RX7...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-Side.jpg
It's red and I'm sore.

[S!X]

Nice, That looks like the same color I tried paining one of my RC car bodies. Nissan Cherry Red Pearl I believe it was.

[mbucari1]

kool car.

[Snee]

I like the original gauge-set as well, bur those new ones are nice.
The new ones will sure be a lot nicer in the dark.

Dunno if that's my kind of steering wheel, but it goes well with those gauges.

[clocker]

Dunno if that's my kind of steering wheel, but it goes well with those gauges.
The steering wheel is probably better suited to an older British sportscar but for me it's all about feel and the rim thickness/finger indents are perfect IMO.
I've tried Momos and just couldn't grow to like them even though they look very nice.
I've also mounted closed cell waffle foam (thanks Seagate!) on the center console and door armrest cause the stock plastic was too hard. It looks funky but is very comfortable and I'm all about pampering myself these days.

The car came with AC and power steering and I'd like to delete them both for aesthetic reasons but am waiting for better weather to see if AC works and trying to scrounge up a second steering rack to modify (in case I want to go back).

Jeez, I am so sore today...this never happened when I just built PCs...

[tesco]

You're removing power steering and ac for aesthetics? :blink:
Not like clocker at all. :no:

[clocker]

I said I was considering it, Ross.
Their removal would really clean up the front driver's side of the engine bay and make routine maintenance easier, not to mention dropping about 60lbs. from that suspension strut.

We'll see.

[Snee]

Maybe, if you remove enough stuff, you won't need power steering at all anyways, if it gets light enough :smilie4: It might feel more direct or something as well, which could be nice :01:

That car isn't all that heavy to begin with, is it, btw?

[Virtualbody1234]

Removing the power steering will make it harder to turn. That's something very important to consider since clocker is old. :P ;)

[Snee]

Obviously, buuut, the lighter the car, the less need for it, afaik.

Might not be that bad without :idunno:


I'm no expert tho', it's more my dad's kind of thing.

[clocker]

Removing the power steering will make it harder to turn. That's something very important to consider since clocker is old. :P ;)
Very true.

My old Z not only had a fast, non-powered rack but Nismo shortened steering knuckles- all of which made for skateboard like handling without excessive effort.
However....the Z weighed right at 2000 lbs. and the RX is closer to 2700.

I'm not sure how onerous the steering might become if I remove the PS which is why I wouldn't do it without having a stock rack to go back to.


BTW, I'll admit to being old, but not to being feeble...there's a difference.:01:

[Virtualbody1234]

Removing the power steering will make it harder to turn. That's something very important to consider since clocker is old. :P ;)

BTW, I'll admit to being old, but not to being feeble...there's a difference.:01:
Yeah right. What was all this about then?
It's red and I'm sore.


Jeez, I am so sore today...this never happened when I just built PCs...

[clocker]

Sheesh...hoisted on my own petard.

I hate the internet.

[Virtualbody1234]

Hey clocker, I figured you might like to see this:

http://photos-247.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v71/135/58/45502846/n45502846_30908247_1209.jpg

[clocker]

Thanks VB...V-8 conversions are relatively common, in fact, the RX owner's forum has a special section devoted to just them.

The one you pictured was poorly done- notice how much hood had to be cut away to clear the intake manifold.
Here's one being done properly by a fellow called "jimlab"...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/jimlab.jpg.
He's shooting for @550-600 HP- at the rear wheel!- and has the money and talent to achieve it. You can see from the positioning of the intake runners that the hood will not be touched at all so he'll have a real sleeper when it's done.
RX's came stock with twin outlet exhausts, so even from the back you won't be able to tell.

On a personal note, today I replaced my exhaust from the cats back with a twin muffler, stainless steel Racing beat system.
Still have a few fitment/hanger issues to sort out but the neighbors ought to love it as she's now much quieter.

[pencap]

congrats man! yeah i live in portland OR where the winter = constant rain, now that the sun is out i bought a scooter, tons of friken fun to cruise around on!

[lynx]

i bought a scooterThat sounds like a clear challenge.

I think you're in trouble, clocker. :lol:

[clocker]

I'm ready.

The scooter will have the clear advantage through the 1/8th mile but he'll be toast after that.

Then I'll run him over.

To remain king one must make the hard decisions.

[j2k4]

Geez, I thought you'd be working on it in the house, taking pictures of it in the bathroom, etc.

Your attempts at overclocking it begin with the exhaust, I see.

Seriously, good to see you back at it, sir. :)

Nice work/good choices on the dash; I've always been partial to Grant wheels myself, too, not the least 'cuz they were always cheaper than Momo. :rolleyes:

I always found upgrading brakes to be comforting work...


BTW-

I'm at work; some soul hereabout has a router I'm tapping, so I probably will lose this shortly...

http://photos-247.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v71/135/58/45502846/n45502846_30908247_1209.jpg[/QUOTE]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/jimlab.jpg.


The Ford convo in VB's pic is a good example of Ford's lack of foresight in designing that big, tall, clunky intake...it never occurred to them the a lower-profile piece (with more production utility) would fit under a variety of hoods.

GM obviously thought of it with the 'Vette piece. ;)

[clocker]

I always found upgrading brakes to be comforting work...

I now face a quandary...perhaps you have insight.

Let me preface this with the caveat that my brakes work fine and there is no mechanical problem at all.
Stopping (especially under normal street conditions) is exemplary and should improve as the pads/rotors bed in.

That said...
I'm not enthused about the "feel"- I was hoping for something closer to the track car pedal that the Z had, very firm and progressive.

The cars that came with the larger 4-piston calipers also had larger bore master cylinders and twin diaphram vacuum boosters.
I have retained the stock components from the small caliper setup (albeit with new parts) and am trying to decide which of the upgraded parts- if not both- might get me closer to what I hope for feel-wise.
What do you think...larger MC, twin chamber booster or both?

[j2k4]

I always found upgrading brakes to be comforting work...

I now face a quandary...perhaps you have insight.

Let me preface this with the caveat that my brakes work fine and there is no mechanical problem at all.
Stopping (especially under normal street conditions) is exemplary and should improve as the pads/rotors bed in.

That said...
I'm not enthused about the "feel"- I was hoping for something closer to the track car pedal that the Z had, very firm and progressive.

The cars that came with the larger 4-piston calipers also had larger bore master cylinders and twin diaphram vacuum boosters.
I have retained the stock components from the small caliper setup (albeit with new parts) and am trying to decide which of the upgraded parts- if not both- might get me closer to what I hope for feel-wise.
What do you think...larger MC, twin chamber booster or both?

Hmmm.

In my experience (going waaaay back), capacity built from multiples (more pistons, etc.) gives feel, but any time boost is involved, retaining/refining feel becomes difficult.

That is not to say it can't be done, but I think the only way to sort it is via the old tuning routine: try different things and see.

That's where brakes get to be a pain because of the mess, but hey...at least you're dealing with fresh parts, which should speed the process.

Your break-in will certainly render you some feel; you may find this sufficient, but you are a picky fucker, so...:)

[clocker]

...I think the only way to sort it is via the old tuning routine: try different things and see.

Very logical, albeit expensive, approach.

I think I shall simply put this little issue on the back burner for a while and see if the passage of time doesn't change my feelings about the "feel" which after all, is totally subjective.

[j2k4]

...I think the only way to sort it is via the old tuning routine: try different things and see.

Very logical, albeit expensive, approach.

I think I shall simply put this little issue on the back burner for a while and see if the passage of time doesn't change my feelings about the "feel" which after all, is totally subjective.

Good idea; I thought 'cuz you asked about those parts you had them close to hand...yeah, break 'em in first and see what you think. ;)

[clocker]

Grrr.

Well, here's today's exercise in frustration- gauges.
The RX's stock instrument cluster contains (among other things...) an oil pressure and water temp indicator.
Unfortunately, there are problems with both (not exclusive to my car)- the oil temp sending unit tends to wear out and gives increasingly low readings and the water temp gauge is not a real full-sweep gauge, although it appears to be. In practice, the water temp gauge only indicates COLD, NORMAL and OOOPS!

There is no fix for the water temp gauge and Mazda wants nearly $250 for the replacement oil pressure sending unit.
Enter aftermarket gauges.

I have a full set of SPI gauges (with sending units)- oil temp and pressure and water temp- and a good place to mount them.
Unfortunately, I needed a way to mount the sending units for the oil sensors as the stock location wouldn't work. Naturally, the aftermarket had a solution- and adaptor that mounts below the oil filter and is tapped for two sending units. A bit pricey at $75 but perfect for my needs.
Here are pics from the website...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/Oil-Adapter.jpg
And installed...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/Oil-Adapter-3.jpg
Note the positioning of the sensor holes compared to the unit that I actually received...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/adaptor1.jpg
And here, with the pressure sender in place...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/adaptor2.jpg
For some reason the sensor hole locations have been moved closer together and the pressure sender now blocks the second sensor hole.

I have emailed the company for an explanation of this nonsense (keep in mind that my sending unit is NOT oversized or weird- it's a standard size unit and they should design these adaptors to accept it) but, till I get a response, my gauge project is on hold.

Nothing is easy.

[j2k4]

I suppose the install is too cramped to add an m/f nipple or an ell?

It would suck to have to do that, they look all ugly and shit. :angry:

[clocker]

I suppose the install is to cramped to add an m/f nipple or an ell?

It would suck to have to do that, they look all ugly and shit. :angry:
It IS possible to Mickey Mouse the pressure sender out of the other hole's way (in fact, I've already been to the hardware store to purchase a 45° male to female adaptor) but, as you've noted- it's ugly and is only a bandaid for a poor design.
Besides, I have concerns- albeit probably unfounded- about the effect on the sensor's response if not directly in the oil's flowpath.

Meh.
For $75, this thing should just work....

[j2k4]

Meh.
For $75, this thing should just work....

Yeah.

Nice anodized piece with a chunk of brass hanging out of it.

You could probably go to a speed shop and get a matching M/F adaptor instead, if you wanted to spend another $30-$40...:rolleyes:

[clocker]

Screwing around with a camera that came in with a bunch of recycled crap...amazingly, this cam is even shittier than my personal unit.
Anyway, some (bad) shots of recent work...
Firstly, the new gauges.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/SPI.jpg
They are the three white blobs in the center console.
Not yet functional, I was road testing them to be certain that I could see them OK before finalizing the wiring. Final install should happen tomorrow and better pics will follow.
Next is a general shot of the engine bay.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/Bay.jpg
This is just to remind me of what it used to look like...there are some major changes 'acomin.
Lastly is the new catback exhaust.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/RB3.jpg
and...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/RB2.jpg
Again, terrible pics, I know.
I'd really like the tips to be raised about 1" to better fit the bumper cutouts but this is how the system wanted to hang using the stock mounting points.
I'm looking into techniques to custom adjust the fit but it's pretty low on my list of priorities so I'll get to it whenever.
It sounds great, BTW.

[tesco]

What are those new guages going to read out?

btw, off topic kinda, how do I fix my broken temperature guage? It just reads cold 24/7 (aka, the needle doesn't move at all, and I know the engine is heating up). :/

[clocker]

The new gauges read water temp, oil temp and oil pressure.

Ross, there are only three parts of your temp circuit...the gauge itself, the sending unit and the wiring in between.
If all your other gauges/indicators work then it's not the gauge panel fuse and probably not the gauge, either.

If you've recently been mucking about under the hood perhaps the sensor wire got dislodged.
If it's intact then I'd guess the most likely culprit would be the sending unit.

[tesco]

Ah, where would I find the sending unit to check the wire? What does it look like?
This is a 1992 GMC safari :P

The temp guage has been thsi way since I got teh van, but the last owner could have unhooked it possibly (accidently, i mean)...

[j2k4]

Ah, where would I find the sending unit to check the wire? What does it look like?
This is a 1992 GMC safari :P

The temp guage has been thsi way since I got teh van, but the last owner could have unhooked it possibly (accidently, i mean)...

If Clocker isn't right (and we must admit there is a slight chance of that) I'd speculate the problem is the sender; by 1992 (especially in family-truckster type vehicles like your Safari) what GM and the other American automakers used were electronic rather than mechanical gauges, thus if the gauge actually has a scaled face, what you have is an idiot gauge, as opposed to an idiot light or a proper mechanical gauge.

Just thought you'd like to know.

BTW-if it's the 4.3 V-6, the temp sender should be in the area of the thermostat housing on the intake manifold.

[tesco]

Ah, where would I find the sending unit to check the wire? What does it look like?
This is a 1992 GMC safari :P

The temp guage has been thsi way since I got teh van, but the last owner could have unhooked it possibly (accidently, i mean)...

If Clocker isn't right (and we must admit there is a slight chance of that) I'd speculate the problem is the sender; by 1992 (especially in family-truckster type vehicles like your Safari) what GM and the other American automakers used were electronic rather than mechanical gauges, thus if the gauge actually has a scaled face, what you have is an idiot gauge, as opposed to an idiot light or a proper mechanical gauge.

Just thought you'd like to know.

BTW-if it's the 4.3 V-6, the temp sender should be in the area of the thermostat housing on the intake manifold.It's the 4.3 v6, isn't that the only one? :unsure:

Thanks for the info, i'll take a look tommorrow or when I get a chance and post back.:happy:


edit: Bah. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_thermostat_located_on_a_1997_GMC_Safari

the thermostat is located on the safari is located top front center of engine, remove the air filter box and the air intake , also remove top portion of the fan shroud,then follow the top radiator hose directly to it . it will take more time getting to it, then it will to replace it.

When I replaced the air filter I remember seeing a wire hanging around not connecte dto anything, and spent some time looking but couldn't figure out where it goes. I bet that's it.
But to get to it I need to open the hatch thingy INSIDE the vehicle, which is wayy too much trouble. :pinch: Took me about an hour to open, hour to shut last time because of all the custom shelves, etc. in the way :frusty:

[j2k4]

If Clocker isn't right (and we must admit there is a slight chance of that) I'd speculate the problem is the sender; by 1992 (especially in family-truckster type vehicles like your Safari) what GM and the other American automakers used were electronic rather than mechanical gauges, thus if the gauge actually has a scaled face, what you have is an idiot gauge, as opposed to an idiot light or a proper mechanical gauge.

Just thought you'd like to know.

BTW-if it's the 4.3 V-6, the temp sender should be in the area of the thermostat housing on the intake manifold.It's the 4.3 v6, isn't that the only one? :unsure:

Thanks for the info, i'll take a look tommorrow or when I get a chance and post back.:happy:


edit: Bah. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_thermostat_located_on_a_1997_GMC_Safari

the thermostat is located on the safari is located top front center of engine, remove the air filter box and the air intake , also remove top portion of the fan shroud,then follow the top radiator hose directly to it . it will take more time getting to it, then it will to replace it.

When I replaced the air filter I remember seeing a wire hanging around not connecte dto anything, and spent some time looking but couldn't figure out where it goes. I bet that's it.
But to get to it I need to open the hatch thingy INSIDE the vehicle, which is wayy too much trouble. :pinch: Took me about an hour to open, hour to shut last time because of all the custom shelves, etc. in the way :frusty:

Negative, you should be able to locate it easily from under the hood; just follow your upper radiator hose back to the engine.

[tesco]

It's the 4.3 v6, isn't that the only one? :unsure:

Thanks for the info, i'll take a look tommorrow or when I get a chance and post back.:happy:


edit: Bah. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_thermostat_located_on_a_1997_GMC_Safari

the thermostat is located on the safari is located top front center of engine, remove the air filter box and the air intake , also remove top portion of the fan shroud,then follow the top radiator hose directly to it . it will take more time getting to it, then it will to replace it.When I replaced the air filter I remember seeing a wire hanging around not connecte dto anything, and spent some time looking but couldn't figure out where it goes. I bet that's it.
But to get to it I need to open the hatch thingy INSIDE the vehicle, which is wayy too much trouble. :pinch: Took me about an hour to open, hour to shut last time because of all the custom shelves, etc. in the way :frusty:

Negative, you should be able to locate it easily from under the hood; just follow your upper radiator hose back to the engine.Alright, will do.:)

[clocker]

Thread revival time.
Much has happened in the past month or so.

Although my RX has many pressing issues to deal with before my big summer trip, the one thing that always bothered me the most was the horrible wheels.
When I first bought the car it was in dire need of tires and I was forced to buy them knowing that they may be redundant when new rims were purchased.
On April 2nd I won an eBay auction for some more suitable wheels that already had tires mounted and just figured I'd keep the originals around for extreme winter usage.
The end of April rolled around and still no wheels and even worse, no communication from the seller.
Filed a Paypal claim and ten days later was awarded 2/3 of what I had paid...basically got screwed but better than nothing.

Found another set of wheels/tires on the RX7 forum and just got them last Friday.
Following is a cut/paste of my message to the seller...

Wheels finally arrived...in a very roundabout way.
Took the day off so I could be home when they came.

First Fedex truck rolled through around three but did not stop. I chased him through the neighborhood and finally caught him and he said "No, those would be on the Ground Delivery truck" that would be around later.

Sure enough, about seven a bigger Fedex truck rolls by but again, does not stop. Flag him down and no wheels.
He gives me the number of the depot manager and I call.
Gee, she doesn't know what's going on but will call me back.
An hour later I find out that one pair of wheels never made it onto any truck at all and are still sitting in the warehouse.
The other pair are on the wrong truck. Delivery will now be Monday...so sorry.

Not gonna happen, says I- my car is on jacks waiting for wheels and I need 'em tonight.
Well, if I want I can wait till the driver with the wheels checks back in and can come pick them up.
Finally, around nine I get the call to come and get them.

Drive fifteen miles to the depot and pick up the two packages.
Very clever way to tie them up, BTW.

Undo the tiedowns and wonder which tires I want on the front...then I notice the insides and know immediately which set you had on the front.
Pull out my disc grinder and take a few mm off the pad that sticks out of the caliper body...sure glad someone else (presumably you?) got to "clearance" the insides of the spokes- that must have made a hell of a racket for a few miles.

Mount wheels and drop the front off the jackstands...oops. Shoulda checked the air pressure...tires are flat.
Rejack front end, dismount wheels and go searching for a gas station that still has an air pump...they used to be everywhere, now they're as rare a hen's teeth.
Finally score, six dollars in quarters later we have a nice set of inflated tires.
Back home, REmount wheels and back on the ground...decide I can't wait and have to try this out.
Car rolls fine but there is a slight bit of clacking when the brakes are applied...this disappears after five or six stops and I hit the highway.
Car steers fine, no pulling, wheels seem well balanced so I head for the nearest twisty road...Turkey Creek Canyon.

HOLY MOTHER OF GOD!
THIS is what the RX should handle like!
I've been rolling on 205/55/16's since I bought the car in December and was beginning to wonder what all the fuss was about...the Mazda was OK but didn't begin to compare to my 1971 Z, which handled like a skateboard.

First turn I almost hit the inside canyon wall- gone was the understeer that the taller, skinny tires had and the transitions were much crisper.

I am one happy camper.


So, now that the biggest visual problem had been fixed I turned my attention to the less exciting- but more important- issues.
First, a new battery.

Car came with a Wal-Mart battery only loosely sitting on the battery tray.
That has been replaced with an Optima Red Top and proper hold down arrangement.
Also fabricated new battery cables.

Next, the engine.
Supposedly my engine had been rebuilt within the last 10k miles but I have every reason to doubt the veracity of the previous owners (there was no documentation to back up this claim) so I've been searching for a reputable and knowledgable rotary specialist to consult.
Last week I finally found such a man and today the RX went through her initial evaluation.

Well, seems my doubts were justified...compression, while not awful, is not what a freshly rebuilt motor should have.
She's still eminently drivable and in no danger of catastrophic failure but I should start saving my pennies (about 30,000 of 'em, to be accurate) and planning on a rebuild.
Crap.

I also have an increasingly irritating oil leak that stems from the oil pan- next Monday that gets dealt with. Were it as simple as dropping the pan and replacing a gasket, I'd do it myself but naturally, being a rotary, it's not...there is special adhesive used (regular RTV sealant apparently fails within a few hundred miles) and the passenger side motor mount is part of the oil pan (go figure)... so he's going to do it to the tune of $100.
A minor leak from the speedo cable drive gear I'll handle myself...seals are ordered.

As icing on the cake, after the hood was dropped and the car started to pull out of the bay, a high pitched squeal ululated from the engine compartment.

F%*king rear bearing on the alternator died.
Great.
I had heard nary a peep from the alt but when it went, it went bigtime.
Fortunately he had a used 3rd gen alternator he was more than happy to sell me.
This is a popular upgrade for my car...almost a drop in conversion, it ups the output from 80 to 100 amps.
All that's required is a pulley swap and a spacer for the tensioner.
Oops, there goes another $100.

C'est la vie as VB might say.

Fortunately, after next Monday's labors the bulk of my renovation should be done (assuming we don't find a dead rat or an apex seal laying in the oil pan) and I can just enjoy the car for a while as I save for the rebuild.

Pics of the progress shall follow anon.

As you were.

[Virtualbody1234]

C'est la vie de l'automoble! (ou du char) slang.

Bagnole?

[j2k4]

Le singe est sur la branche.

That what I hear, anyway. :dabs:

Here's hoping no further negative developments ensue.

[clocker]

Le singe est sur la branche.


My tree is burned?

[j2k4]

Le singe est sur la branche.


My tree is burned?

The monkey is in the tree would be closer, I think.

[clocker]

My tree is burned?

The monkey is in the tree would be closer, I think.
My, hasn't this taken a turn down Strange Lane lately.

Anyways...
The new alternator is almost ready for installation.
Even the simplest "plug 'n play" swap involves a bit of modification- in this case, my v-belt pulley was slightly too small (about .060", actually) to fit the FD's center shaft (the FD uses a serpentine belt instead of multiple v-belts).
Machining the pulley to fit was a matter minutes but I lack an impact gun to torque down the nut so I'll stop on the way to work and have the mechanic zizz it on tight.
Tonight I'll install the new alt.

I was going to change all my belts at the same time but decided to wait till I confirm that the new pulley is correctly aligned and the alternator is operating right (it is a used part after all).
Changing the belts- four altogether- looks to be a royal PITA what with the fan and it's shroud in the way, should make for a fun Sunday afternoon.

There IS light at the end of the tunnel but it's dim and flickery right now.

Assuming that all goes well my last big project before my trip will be radiator replacement...still mulling my options on this.
The stock rad (and I'm assuming that mine is the original) is one of the dreaded aluminum core/ plastic end tank designs which are prone to sudden catastrophic failure instead of the slow warning leak which the older, all metal units used to exhibit.
Both Koyo and Fluidyne make larger (thicker, actually) all aluminum replacements that are easily purchased on eBay for around $300 and seem like a better option than the all metal (brass) units available at local radiator shops for $200-250.
There is also a very intriguing setup from a race car available on the RX7 forum which, under normal conditions, I would jump on in a heartbeat but it looks like there would be significant fabricating involved to accommodate my street accessories (specifically the AC and power steering- two things I'm undecided about keeping anyway). The coolest thing about this setup (and yes, the upcoming pun is intended) is that it incorporates a true cold air intake setup- highly desirable and not easily done on my car.
I could get this setup- which includes a Griffith alloy rad, all the custom ducting, two K&N airfilters, an electric fan and some misc. bits- for about $300.
Money is getting tight this month though, so I'm not sure what to do.

[clocker]

Pics...albeit my trademark crappy ones...at last.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-wheels2.jpg

I believe the wheels are from a Mustang but there is nothing definitive on the wheel to prove it. I'd like to come up with some center caps so it's kinda important that I find out.

Here's one that only goes to show that I do have an engine...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/mini-engine1.jpg
...although what kind of engine, you'd be hard pressed to tell from this shot.

That is the new alternator in place here although you'd have to be a student of the marque to notice.
I'm rather fond of the color coordination between the battery and the paint- a small touch, but they can be so telling.

[crimsonhelkyte]

Cars, I wish I had pics of my 1970 chevelle ss
I love my car, too bad my brother took the engine
out. I wish i was good at fixing cars all i need is a
wire harness and ill be good to go.

[clocker]

Cars, I wish I had pics of my 1970 chevelle ss

So does j2, I'll bet...that is his era and style of automobile.

too bad my brother took the engine
out
He had a few spare hours and just decided to rip out the motor or what?

I wish i was good at fixing cars
"Wishing" won't get you very far...doing, will.
The biggest trick to learn is knowing what you can't do and when it's time to bring in the pros.
Stopping before you fuxxor something up is as big a sign of experience as anything else.

[j2k4]

So does j2, I'll bet...that is his era and style of automobile.

too bad my brother took the engine
out
He had a few spare hours and just decided to rip out the motor or what?

I wish i was good at fixing cars
"Wishing" won't get you very far...doing, will.
The biggest trick to learn is knowing what you can't do and when it's time to bring in the pros.
Stopping before you fuxxor something up is as big a sign of experience as anything else.

But nonetheless:

Start with the purchase of a few basic tools, taking care to get beyond the standard (for lots of people, regrettably) three-piece set.

Better yet, ask for help with that.

Then, after well-securing your temper and fear with duct tape, proceed to the operating theater...:dabs:

[Snee]

Start with the purchase of a few basic tools, taking care to get beyond the standard (for lots of people, regrettably) three-piece set.:

Hammer, club, and...? :unsure:

[j2k4]

Start with the purchase of a few basic tools, taking care to get beyond the standard (for lots of people, regrettably) three-piece set.:

Hammer, club, and...? :unsure:

Vise-grips or any flat-bladed screwdriver-like utensil.

Even the most basic kits have options, you see.

For instance, you could occasionally switch off between your hammer and club.

It's really just down to one's creativity.

[clocker]

Even the most basic kits have options, you see.


Just so.
After years of financing my Snap-On driver's mistress I finally realized that there are really only two tools necessary to properly maintain my vehicles...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/money.jpg

and

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/pot_of_gold.jpg

Evertything else is just windowdressing for poseurs.

[clocker]

More crap news...

Mondays are my day off so they are also the day I get the car worked on.
Yesterday was the appointment to have the oilpan resealed (Mazda uses a proprietary sealant instead of gaskets and mine had standard RTV which resulted in a nice steady leak).

Up on the lift, the first step is undoing the motor mounts so the engine can be jacked up to provide clearance for dropping the pan.
Both my mounts fell out in pieces...basically the front of my motor has just been sitting on the mounting pads, not tied down at all.

Great.

The oilpan is held on with @20 bolts- six of mine were broken and the heads had just been stuck on with silicon to disguise them. This was probably the result of using an air ratchet and overtorqueing the small 6mm bolts and explains why the pan leaked so badly.
The threads across the front were all crossthreaded- these bolts are the most difficult to install because of tight clearance with the steering rack.

Great.

So, what should have been a half hour procedure turned into a four hour nightmare but Marc, my mechanic, persevered and made everything right. To my amazement (and his eternal credit) he did not change the original labor estimate and only charged me what a normal job would have cost.

Also while up on the lift we noticed that the bottom left corner of the radiator was damp and after cleaning up the accumulated crud, discovered that the joint between the plastic end tank and the aluminum core had been epoxied.
My radiator is essentially a ticking bomb and could catastrophically fail at any time. There is no way I'll embark on my vacation trip next month (approximately 3000 miles) with this rad...I'd get ulcers worrying about it since you just know it will let go at the worst possible time/place- probably in the middle of Nebraska at 2AM.

Great.

Naturally, none of these problems were in the budget for this month although both the mounts and the rad were on my list for future replacement.

I sucked it up and ordered the motor mounts this morning ($43 apiece, so not too bad) and have begun the hunt for a radiator.
No way I'm getting a stock unit- besides being stupid expensive, I hate the crimped plastic/aluminum construction (although, to be fair, this one did hold up for 16 years).
I had planned on buying a Fluidyne aluminum rad eventually but unless I can find a good used one, it's just not in the budget right now so I'm kinda in a corner.
We'll just have to keep fingers crossed and hope for the best.

I did have one thing go well...
Since I bought the car I've been searching for the bellypan that had been missing but had no luck. This piece is critical for proper cooling as it keeps the intake air from just spilling out the bottom of the car instead of funneling through the rads (yeah, there are multiple cooling panels- the oil cooler, the AC condenser and the radiator).
My mechanic rummaged around in his storage area and found one in great codition which he gave me.
Truly a prince among men...

Can hardly wait for the next nasty little surprise to rear it's head.

[lynx]

Ah, the infamous Mazda broken engine mounts.

I remember when we were rallying a Mazda (not an RX7) in the early 80s we were advised to construct a box round the mounts so that the engine didn't move much when (not if) the mounts broke.

Sounds like the next 10 years didn't bring any improvements in that area.

[j2k4]

Motor mounts have been a bugaboo forever.

Solid and "unbreakable" breaks/fatigues other things, and at the very least, age will do them in.

Interesting fact:

The fellow who did the production research on the hydro-mount patent was a neighbor of mine in the early eighties - he had some really neat prototype hardware to play with (we spent a lot of time playing with it, too).

The local outfit who was doing the work set him up with a complete machine shop and a six-bay garage to play in on the south side of town.

He had (for example) an '84 Ford Thunderbird with a ZF five speed and a five cylinder BMW diesel under the hood.

Lots of that type of thing.

He was supremely talented, and when the mount was ready he was hired for really large money by some German engineering outfit.

Anyway...

Can the tank be separated/re-affixed, or is the radiator too ripe?

[clocker]

Ah, the infamous Mazda broken engine mounts.

I remember when we were rallying a Mazda (not an RX7) in the early 80s we were advised to construct a box round the mounts so that the engine didn't move much when (not if) the mounts broke.

Sounds like the next 10 years didn't bring any improvements in that area.
That sounds like a very good idea.
Seriously.

To be fair though, the mounts are probably original and, judging by the hackwork I've discovered all through the car, were probably damaged (and ignored) by the "Mazda expert" who previously maintained the vehicle.




Can the tank be separated/re-affixed, or is the radiator too ripe?
Too ripe and too critical to fudge.
Found a used all aluminum rad right here in Denver.
Going to look at it after work tonight.

[rodcarpenter]

I just finished putting in my power fc and got back to my garage after a test drive. As I was sitting in the garage I revved the car up to feel the differences in the car. After revving it up a few times I started to see smoke. Then I opened the hood and smoke from burning coolant was everywhere. I looked on the floor and saw all of my coolant spilling out into a big puddle on the floor. I am scared to try and start up the car. I am pretty sure that I don't have any more coolant in the car casue there was so much spilling out of the car onto the garage floor. I know that the pfc is not the problem cause the car was running fine before I brought it back home. I have been experiencing minor overheating problems for the last few months. Nothing major, just over average temperature readings. After seeing the smoke, my temperature gauge read just under the top hash mark. I have heard about stock AST's blowing, but I looked at mine and it doesn't seem like its leaking. What do I do now??????? Please help.....

[lynx]

I just finished putting in my power fc and got back to my garage after a test drive. As I was sitting in the garage I revved the car up to feel the differences in the car. After revving it up a few times I started to see smoke. Then I opened the hood and smoke from burning coolant was everywhere. I looked on the floor and saw all of my coolant spilling out into a big puddle on the floor. I am scared to try and start up the car. I am pretty sure that I don't have any more coolant in the car casue there was so much spilling out of the car onto the garage floor. I know that the pfc is not the problem cause the car was running fine before I brought it back home. I have been experiencing minor overheating problems for the last few months. Nothing major, just over average temperature readings. After seeing the smoke, my temperature gauge read just under the top hash mark. I have heard about stock AST's blowing, but I looked at mine and it doesn't seem like its leaking. What do I do now??????? Please help.....Try reformatting.

[clocker]

I have been experiencing minor overheating problems for the last few months. Nothing major, just over average temperature readings.
Looks like your "minor overheating problem" has just escalated into a "major cooling system repair".
Obviously, the first thing is to find where the coolant decided to escape, which should be fairly easy given the magnitude of the leak.
Then- why did it overheat so catastrophically?

Then reformat.

[accat13]

Too ripe and too critical to fudge.
Found a used all aluminum rad right here in Denver.
Going to look at it after work tonight.
My guess the used aluminum rad did not meet expectations

[clocker]

Don't know...pickup was delayed till Friday night.

[clocker]

Busy day for ole man clocker today and believe me, the muscles are screaming.
Especially the lower back and legs.

Oh well, no pain, no gain.

The plan was to install the new (to me, at least) aluminum radiator, all the drive belts, thermostat and coolant.
That was the plan...didn't quite work out that way.

First came stripping out the front of the engine bay.
Here we have already removed the rad, intake, battery and loosened the belts...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/Norad.jpg

This is what the front of the old rad looked like. Looking at the lower left corner you can see the epoxy (or whatever) applied previously to seal a slow leak. This didn't really work out too well (at least for me) and there is an extra buildup of crud as moisture attracted dirt, etc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/Oldrad.jpg
It's odd, the AC condensor, directly in front of the radiator, was almost free of any crud, so where all this crap came from is a mystery.

To be prudent, I decided to fill the new rad with water as a simple leak test before installation. While awaiting results I went ahead and cleaned the newly exposed areas- this pretty much finishes my "poor mans" engine bay restoration...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/Prebelt.jpg
After this the new belts and thermostat were installed.

All this went more easily than I expected. No nasty surprises, all the hardware came out without issue and I was optimistic.

Prematurely, as it turned out.

The alloy rad leaks...in at least two places and keep in mind, this was not under pressure, so it's possible there are more.
Here are the offending spots...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/Allyrad1.jpg

Needless to say, I am not a happy camper.
Naturally, the seller is claiming that the rad was in usable condition when I got it Friday and the damage is my doing.
Of course, my take is slightly different but what can you do?
But used - and cheap- and ya takes your chances.

I reinstalled the old rad after a good cleaning and tomorrow, after the new motor mounts are installed, I'll take the leaky unit to a repair shop and see what can be done.

This is disappointing as I had planned on this weekend being the end of my pre-roadtrip major maintenance and have a list of purely cosmetic details I wanted to attack but TBH, outside of the financial considerations of the repair (or whole new radiator, depending on the diagnosis) it's not that big a deal...I can do the rad swap in about an hour and a half.

Now for a nice hot shower, some Advil and dinner.

[j2k4]

Breath is 'bated, and all that.

I can identify with the sore back, etc., especially with long-nosed vehicles.

I prefer my computer-reclamation project, to be honest, but I haven't even had time to finish that, with this other goings-on.

Still looking for an employee; maybe two or three.

[lynx]

You may find the tubes are almost impossible to repair, but it should be possible to remove the two offending tubes. There are about 60 so losing a couple won't affect performance noticeably.

Looking at the old rad, I'd say that crud was picked up from the floor of the breaker's yard it was obtained from.


Still looking for an employee; maybe two or three.Sorry, we aren't running an employment service here.

[clocker]

Breath is 'bated, and all that.


Unbate thy breath, Kev.
New motor mounts installed this AM...certainly not a job I'd wish upon myself.
Mark admitted that installing a set of stock mounts with the engine in situ was a first for him, usually the mounts are installed as the motor is being dropped into the bay or an aftermarket set is used.
I had considered some "high performance" Delrin (or even solid aluminum) parts but was not willing to deal with the increased vibration they have to cause.

Mark's estimate of one hour for the job was only off by a factor of 2 1/2 and the combination of jacks and tools used was not something I would have been able to assemble in the driveway.
Ultimately the exhaust had come off at the manifold, the engine jacked up at the bellhousing and the suspension subframe dropped- just to insert the mounts with their pesky studs.

All in all, a pretty crap way for him to begin his workweek but vastly entertaining for me, I must admit. Watching someone else deal with unexpectedly cantankerous projects- the kind I used to fearlessly undertake myself- was well worth the money.



Looking at the old rad, I'd say that crud was picked up from the floor of the breaker's yard it was obtained from.

Cynical, but probably all too true.

I took the rad round to two repair shops after the motor work was completed.

The first wanted $75 to run a leak test (which involved dye and blacklight), after which they would quote me for the actual repair.
We parted company.

The second shop was only interested in replacing the entire unit, which is the option I'm leaning towards anyway.
Unfortunately, their warranty only applies if they perform the install and unlike the motor mounts, putting in the rad is a job I'm comfortable doing myself.

Then it was naptime, so the hunt shall continue anon.


Edit: The thread title "Warm weather at last!" now strikes me as humorous.
After freezing my ass off all winter I now look back fondly at the cold as Denver has set three high temp records in the past week and we're looking at continued high 90's and possibly 100+ for the foreseeable future.
This year we just didn't have much of a spring...went from "too damn cold" to "bloody f*ckin hot" without a gap.

I think it's global warming...what do you think, j2?

[j2k4]

I think it's global warming...what do you think, j2?

The globe is warmer, I think.

Gonna scrape three digits here today...Mother Nature can be a bitch - however, my calculations indicate all is within more-or-less normal bounds.

I've seen much stranger things in my life, back when the hot air issuing from D.C. was not quite so voluminous or inane.