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SingaBoiy
05-12-2008, 08:38 AM
Ok, well it started out I wanted to get one of those Pico-ITX boards and build a really tiny pc that is totally without moving parts. But as seeing those are well over $200, ive decided to make one with mostly components I already have. The guts:

Pentium Dual-Core E2200 @2.2GHz (might underclock to keep temps down)
ECS cheap-o motherboard (micro-atx)
2x 1GB Adata DDR2 800
Radeon HD 2400Pro (low profile)
2-8GB Compact Flash as harddrive (still working this out)
Custom acrylic case
Windows XPe Operating System


MOBO/CPU
Still unsure if I will be using a mini-itx + onboard processor or the micro-atx with the E2200. I want something that is very low power consumption. Somehow I went from wanting to build a router with linux to building a tiny HTPC. So that would be something I needed info on. If a board with the VIA C7 (1.5GHz cpu) would be capable of handling 1080 content. It will have the HD 2400 vid card, so I am not positive if the GPU can do most of the work for that aspect. Currently I am highest bidder on a Via VB7001 + 1.5GHz CPU ($32 total w/ 30hrs remaining)

HD/CF
This is something I really wanted to do. As a router, it should work great (could even set it up to read-only access). But as for handling larger files, I know the speed take a huge hit. Would this impact the performance of playing off a USB harddrive?

Ive read the life of a Compact Flash drive isnt really something to worry about theoretically (should be +/- 50yrs at full speed reading/writing) (http://www.storagesearch.com/ssdmyths-endurance.html). And it should extend total life by running multiple cards in a Raid0 setup. Since the access will be spanned out. I was planning on getting 2 cards anyways. Im looking at the Lexar 300x cards right now. As for as I know, those are the fastest available ATM.

Operating System
Just heard about Windows XPe(mbedded). Can use that to remove unwanted stuff. Even load it into RAM on bootup? That way most the reading/writing is to the RAM and not the CF, preserving its life. Or should I just use XP + xplite? Ive seen people get the size down to 800MB, so even a 2GB card would be plenty. But I do really like the idea of loading into the RAM, unless that would take away the possibility of playing the 1080 content.

PSU
Most likely go a low profile PSU off ebay and mount on the top of the case, as with the CF. Was thinking of something like this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=180240686656)

Custom Case
Im hoping this to be a possible guide for other people when im finished.

I plan on the total system size to be around 10x10x3". It most likely will not have a dvd drive. Or else it will cover up most of the visual aspect of the acrylic case :lol: Can still use a laptop/thin drive but it will drive up the total cost + the power consumption.

Anyways, I am in need of some design help. I need to cram everything into as small of a case as possible. Obviously I cant go smaller than the size of the motherboard (9.6 x 9.6 x ~2"). The highest points will most likely be the fan on the CPU (e2200) and the vid card.

For the CF, I will most likely get a IDE-to-CF adapter. But I am also looking at the SATA adapter. I will probably get 2 of the SATA ones because the price is so high for the adapters with a 2x connecter for CF. Im thinking it will be mounted on the top of the case (if the case top flips open).

Would a "flip-top" be best? Or designing a way to slide out the motherboard. I dont want a mobo tray, maybe little pegs/spaces made out of the same acrylic material that the motherboard screws into. So it give it the appearance of floating on air. Well, not really but you get the point. How would put in the screw holes? Pre-drill it slightly smaller then put the screw in?

Ive never worked with acrylic before. A tile saw should be able to cut through, say, plexyglass with no problems, right? Then simply solvent weld the pieces together. If I went with the "flip-top" method, would it be best just to "weld" everything together then take the tile cutter and chop off the top portion. Should make it look more professional. Then make some mortis and tenon joints so it all fits together snug.


Looks like ill be going by TAP tomorrow to check prices. I hear they'll even cut your pieces for you for free with the purchase. (where clocker be @)
:01:

clocker
05-12-2008, 11:59 AM
Guide to Machining Plastic. (http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=90412)

SingaBoiy
05-12-2008, 02:25 PM
Guide to Machining Plastic. (http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=90412)

Wow, great info. Will def. read through the whole thing. Thanks :)

kaiweiler
05-12-2008, 03:57 PM
I'm sure you already have something figured out, but how do you plan to install XP without a CD/DVD drive?
I love the idea of no moving parts, I'll likely go the same route as soon as SSDs drop in price a bit.

Detale
05-13-2008, 04:28 AM
You could use a flash drive but I thonk you would want a DVD drive on it no? I almost did something similar a while back but instead of making my own case which is way more invlved that I originally thought I decided to get one of these cases @ Tiger for cheap

Ultra Micro Fly (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1800611&CatId=3428) with crappy 40w PSU $70
http://images.tigerdirect.com/skuimages/large/ULT33115-main.jpg

Now the cool thing about this case is you can use a regular ATX PSU on it instead of having to get the smaller PSU for Shuttles. Anyway it's pretty small

http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/gfx-blkbullet.jpg Depth: 15" http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/pixel-clr.gif http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/pixel-clr.gif http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/pixel-clr.gif
http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/gfx-blkbullet.jpg Width: 11.25" http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/pixel-clr.gif http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/pixel-clr.gif http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/pixel-clr.gif
http://images.tigerdirect.com/main/gfx-blkbullet.jpg Height: 9"
Also consider price and time to make. If you are absolutly hooked on the acrilic thing Newegg has this case for $80 US

Sunbeam Transparent Clear Acrylic ACHT-T ATX Media Center / HTPC Case (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811166046)
http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/11-166-046-02.jpg
Not my cup of tea but what will material to build cost you? if it's more than $80 then is it really worth it to build yourself? Now i am a Carpenter so I fully understand the pride involved in building something yourself so I see if you still want to tackle a new project, but again weigh out the cost vs time and headache involved.

Also what will you be using this rig for, or did I miss it in the first post? I am playing around with the HTPC using that tiny cheapo Micro Fly case now when I get all the kinks out of what exactly I want then I might spend some big bucks on a good HTPC case like

SILVERSTONE Black Aluminum Crown Series CW02B-MXR ATX Media Center / HTPC Case (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163084)
http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/11-163-084-02.jpg

OR

Moneual LAB Silver Aluminum MonCaso 832P ATX Media Center / HTPC Case (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811280009)
http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/11-280-009-05.jpg

They are pricey but I figure I will use it for everythiing Home Theater again when I figure out exactly what I want.

Good luck man and please keep us posted

SingaBoiy
05-13-2008, 04:29 AM
Plan on connecting one to install it, then disconnect afterwards.

Picked up 2 18x24" acrylite (i think lol, dont remember) for $31.26 total. Says 1/4" but it looks like its at least 3/8 or 1/2. Will have to measure.

SingaBoiy
05-14-2008, 06:52 PM
I got some work done yesterday. I only needed 1 of the 18x24's. I didnt feel like doing the math lol. Anyways. Heres my tools of destruction:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7110/dscf1169ey5.th.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1169ey5.jpg)
7" diamond blade. It has no teeth on it. Laser guided (proved to help destroy my project). Water cooled. That empty space is where the water goes. The table only went up to 10", piece of crap.

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6973/dscf1170uw2.th.jpg (http://img341.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1170uw2.jpg)http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5413/dscf1171vu4.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1171vu4.jpg)http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/7165/dscf1175ay1.th.jpg (http://img409.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1175ay1.jpg)

This thing was not designed right. The L shaped bracket that held the laser guide/guard in place was on to of the table. Causing whatever is getting cut to get caught on it. Forcing you to lift up as you're cutting. That + the table was too close to the blade, causing plastic to get stuck in between, as you can see from the pic, interfering with the cut.

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7885/dscf1167qt3.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1167qt3.jpg)http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2342/dscf1174rw2.th.jpg (http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1174rw2.jpg)

I made little cubes (these will be used as spacers between the case and the motherboard)

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/5112/dscf1178bo9.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1178bo9.jpg)http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/5421/dscf1179rx8.th.jpg (http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1179rx8.jpg)
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/2717/dscf1181cd7.th.jpg (http://img530.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1181cd7.jpg)http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/6695/dscf1183od8kg8.th.jpg (http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1183od8kg8.jpg)

This is the plan:
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/3595/dscf1184dc7.th.jpg (http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1184dc7.jpg)http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5213/dscf1188xj5.th.jpg (http://img233.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1188xj5.jpg)http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5761/dscf1189eg2.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1189eg2.jpg)http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/1254/dscf1192zg4.th.jpg (http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf1192zg4.jpg)

I am going to heat the copper "screws" that come with cases. Then I should be able to stick em in the plastic spacers I made. Like a hot knife through butter :) Use the Weld-On to "weld" the spacers to the bottom of the case.

clocker
05-14-2008, 10:22 PM
I am going to heat the copper "screws" that come with cases. Then I should be able to stick em in the plastic spacers I made. Like a hot knife through butter :)
In the ghetto...in the ghetto...in the ghetto.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/cartman.jpg

SingaBoiy
05-15-2008, 04:49 AM
I am going to heat the copper "screws" that come with cases. Then I should be able to stick em in the plastic spacers I made. Like a hot knife through butter :)
In the ghetto...in the ghetto...in the ghetto.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/clocker/cartman.jpg

Whats your easy solution?

Detale
05-15-2008, 07:02 AM
on a cold and gray Chicago morn' another little baby child is born....

Where??

clocker
05-15-2008, 11:04 AM
I am going to heat the copper "screws" that come with cases. Then I should be able to stick em in the plastic spacers I made. Like a hot knife through butter :) Use the Weld-On to "weld" the spacers to the bottom of the case.




Whats your easy solution?
Drill and tap the proper hole.

Is this project going to be about the "easy" way of doing things?

SingaBoiy
05-15-2008, 11:29 AM
Whats your easy solution?
Drill and tap the proper hole.

Is this project going to be about the "easy" way of doing things?

I love easy. :01:

Would it be better to drill the little spacers I made?

clocker
05-15-2008, 12:53 PM
If you love "easy" why are you building a case from scratch?

Of course it would be better to drill/tap the spacers but I suspect that will be pretty difficult now that they're already cut out.
Ideally you would drill /tap the holes in a large piece and then cut them into individual units.

Detale
05-15-2008, 08:58 PM
Whats your easy solution?
Drill and tap the proper hole.

Is this project going to be about the "easy" way of doing things?

Oh 5hit *Clocker hates easy. Another recommendation is that you can also use a "self Tapping/Self Drilling" screw, we use them all the time at work, use it first to make the threads in the plastic then use the screws you wish :)

kaiweiler
05-15-2008, 11:55 PM
:D
You better edit your post there D, I don't think clocker would appreciate being called that...

clocker
05-16-2008, 01:26 AM
Meh.

Detale
05-16-2008, 02:01 AM
:D
You better edit your post there D, I don't think clocker would appreciate being called that...

Just seen that sorry C fixed