Wireless router dropping wireless connections

[tesco]

My wireless router suddenly started dropping wireless connections.
The laptop, iphones, etc. will all report normal signal strength (usually 3/4 bars) but just won't be able to connect to the internet or network, then it will come back for a short time and drop back out again.
I tried changing the channel and moving the router around, as well as twisting the antenna to different directions, but that hasn't helped.
Any ideas?

DLink wbr-1310

[mjmacky]

This is going to sound completely retarded, but I assume you have tried restarting it?

[tesco]

Definitely tried that a few times.

Now maybe my testing methods aren't that reliable.
Lets just ignore the iphones, since they seemed to lose their connection even before all of this started to happen.
Looking at just the laptop, in Windows7 it seems to get a connection for a max of 15 seconds before it stops working, while in Linux running from a USB stick I haven't seen it drop the connection yet...

Back in Windows I've tried disabling and re-enabling the wireless adapter. I tried downgrading the driver, upgraded it, tried microsoft's driver. I tried disabling eset smart security internet filter, uninstalling eset smart security altogether, restarting several times, safe mode, etc. and nothing has helped.

[mjmacky]

I've experienced an issue like this before, and was fortunately able to fix it. The only problem is that I've experienced a bunch of different issues and I'm not sure which solutions worked for which problems. So, regurgitating any previous fixes would probably be of little use...

But the fundamental root of your problem would make me think that you have a lot of electromagnetic noise going on in your environment. Specifying the wireless protocol (e.g. use G only instead of B/G, or B/G instead of A/G or A/B/G), playing with wide/narrow (probably doesn't apply to your model), trying different channels (e.g. 1, 6, 9, or 11).

Since you've always seemed to have had issues with other devices, my guess is that your router was not already optimized for your environment. The thing about USB sticks is that they seem to work exceptionally well (faster, more reliable, especially when you brand match with the router). The WiFi chipsets internal to laptops are always mediocre, I have never met one that impressed me.

Fortunately for me, I haven't had wireless issues in over a year, which is about how long I've had my WRT 610N. It's the first wireless router that has impressed me with both its performance and lack of issues... EVER.

[Burnsy]

moving the router around, as well as twisting the antenna to different directions, but that hasn't helped.
Any ideas?

That's me out...

[tesco]

Specifying the wireless protocol (e.g. use G only instead of B/G, or B/G instead of A/G or A/B/G), playing with wide/narrow (probably doesn't apply to your model)

Is that router side or laptop side?

Also, I'm noticing the issue still in Linux, though it doesn't seem to happen as often or for as long. It's probably just a quirk with windows that's making the issue more exaggerated.

[NotLettingItGo]

It could be interference, I encountered this recently when I switched to BT broadband. In my case the new shiny BT hub (complete with their wonderful shiny "smart wireless" technology) completely fucked up the 2.4GHz frequency in my house. turning off the wireless in their router restored everything back to normal.

It could be that one of your neighbours has brought a new bit of kit with wireless in it and that has saturated the 2.4GHz frequency, ask your neighbours if they've got any new wireless kit, or microwaves. Yes microwave ovens can completely fuck up the 2.4GHz frequency range as well.

Try switching the router to a different wireless channel, Virgin Broadband had a similar problem with their broadband unlimited modems, there was meant to be an autosensing feature which detected channel congestion and which automaticaly switched channels. It didn't work, so all their modems automatically selected the same channel, and saturated the frequency, and all their users were getting speeds of about 3kb/s on their superfast connections. Manually setting the channel to a different setting made that problem vanish.

[mjmacky]

Specifying the wireless protocol (e.g. use G only instead of B/G, or B/G instead of A/G or A/B/G), playing with wide/narrow (probably doesn't apply to your model)

Is that router side or laptop side?

Also, I'm noticing the issue still in Linux, though it doesn't seem to happen as often or for as long. It's probably just a quirk with windows that's making the issue more exaggerated.

Router side. There's usually very little control you have on hardware behavior for the device side. But if you get things working more smoothly with the router, only then would I recommend tinkering around in the Advanced Tab of the hardware in Device Manager. The whole concept there is to make the WiFi communication broad enough to communicate with all your devices, but specific enough to ignore EM noise around the same frequency. That's the point of designating bandwidth, specifying protocol, etc.

My memory of DLink configuration is distant, so I can't really point you in any direction there. As reject had mentioned, any newer modem from an ISP is usually a shitty wireless router, so if you have one of those running, disable the wireless if you can. I had one from Verizon before and I remember just removing the 3 antennas from it made a world of difference (since it wouldn't let me disable wireless broadcast).

[tesco]

After setting "802.11g-only mode" in the router I was able to get a constant connection, no drops, up to 20ft away from the router. Unfortunately my sister's room (where the laptop is used most) is more than that.
How do I figure out if it's a noise issue. I've tried changing the channel many times with no difference.

The idea of a neighbour recently adding a wireless router is a good one, especially since Christmas just passed (somebody might have got a new smartphone or laptop and decided to add a wireless router).

Also keep in mind that at the point where the laptop would lose connection, it would still claim to have a signal strength of 3 out of 4 bars. Also, at that point and beyond my iphone still connects to the wifi just fine.


I'm tempted to just buy a cheapo wireless USB dongle, for testing purposes at least.
Any idea if one of these little guys http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315091 will get the range I need (from router in basement to top floor)?

[mjmacky]

In that case I'm definitely thinking it's a wireless interference issue. By the way, you already have a wireless USB stick from what you said, why not just test that one with your laptop? Also, since you've somewhat stabilized the issue, try going to Device Manager --> Wireless Adapter Properties --> Advanced Tab --> and set that to Wireless G only if the option is available.

[tesco]

In that case I'm definitely thinking it's a wireless interference issue. By the way, you already have a wireless USB stick from what you said, why not just test that one with your laptop? Also, since you've somewhat stabilized the issue, try going to Device Manager --> Wireless Adapter Properties --> Advanced Tab --> and set that to Wireless G only if the option is available.
I don't have a wireless USB stick, I said I'm tempted to buy one for testing purposes. :P


I'm also thinking about buying a new router. Apparantly a wireless N router can get a much better range, and the card in the laptop is already an N card.

[mjmacky]

I don't have a wireless USB stick, I said I'm tempted to buy one for testing purposes. :P

Then I must be misreading this line, but not exactly sure how:

while in Linux running from a USB stick I haven't seen it drop the connection yet


I'm also thinking about buying a new router. Apparantly a wireless N router can get a much better range, and the card in the laptop is already an N card.

This, definitely this. If you can afford it, you'll be nothing but satisfied. I use the Linksys WRT 610N, so it's the only one I could recommend with credibility.

[tesco]

What I meant by that, if that I'm running linux on the laptop off of a USB flash drive, as opposed to windows7 which is installed to the hard drive. :P

I'm looking at this router, mainly for the open source firmware, external antennae (3 of them :O), and gigabit ethernet: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320038

I figure if I'm going to replace the router might as well get some sort of an upgrade out of it as well. Bit pricey though...

[mjmacky]

What I meant by that, if that I'm running linux on the laptop off of a USB flash drive, as opposed to windows7 which is installed to the hard drive. :P

I'm looking at this router, mainly for the open source firmware, external antennae (3 of them :O), and gigabit ethernet: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320038

I figure if I'm going to replace the router might as well get some sort of an upgrade out of it as well. Bit pricey though...

If I were buying right now, I'd probably be picking up this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124388
Full disclosure, it's the spiritual successor to my current model, with apparently a shitload of improvements. And they've got a DD-WRT firmware for it, http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_E3000

[tesco]

I don't like the idea of an internal antenna tbh.

edit: After reading a little bit I'm somewhat convinced, 6 internal antennas doesn't sound all that bad and people claim it gets great range.

Newegg Canada doesn't have that model though I found it at ncix.com for $89.99, but newegg does have refurbished for 64.99 and good ratings. :unsure: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124419

[sandman_1]

I know this is coming in late in the conversation but have you tried a wifi analyzer app? I use one for my Android phone to put my router on a channel with the least interference. I got a couple neighbors that use channel 1 and 5 and thus get poor results if I use those channels or even adjacent channels. Channel 11 was the sweet spot for my case, excellent strength. Even if you do get a new router, I would still analyze your wifi for the best channel. I hope everything works out.

[yevgeny]

I absolutely hate wireless but in my limited experience with it found that the cheaper TP-Link 1043ND (Approx $70) was better than the linksys one I paid about $200 or so for. I use the stock tplink firmware, even that is better than the linksys offering so I have no problem recommending this router, its a bit fugly though with three external antennae. chan 13 works best for me but tinker with it, anyway, good luck sorting it out. also, if interference is the problem a dual band/radio 5ghz router may help.

Dlink DIR-827 (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31641-d-link-dir-827-hd-media-router-2000-reviewed)
Asus RT-N56U (http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews/31436-asus-rt-n56u-black-diamond-dual-band-gigabit-wireless-n-router-reviewed)

[NotLettingItGo]

Also keep in mind that at the point where the laptop would lose connection, it would still claim to have a signal strength of 3 out of 4 bars. Also, at that point and beyond my iphone still connects to the wifi just fine.


Yeah that all fits, in my example the BT router is installed in my office, where I have a HP Wireless Printer. With the BT router wireless turned on the Printer won't connect to the wifi network, when I turn the BT router wireless off, it connects to the wireless router in the attic just fine. Yet laptops and things could still manage to connect. Obviously the wireless in the HP Printer is more sensitive to interference.

I have wifi 'n' routers and it does make a massive difference to the range. The other idea is a range extender, something like this http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&cp=8&gs_id=1c&xhr=t&q=wifi+range+extender&biw=1024&bih=863&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=5234948583170551690&sa=X&ei=YDULT6uiHNGLhQf2-bG7CQ&sqi=2&ved=0CIoBEPMCMAI

The other thing to be aware of is the 'Dual Band' thing. Wifi used to operate in the 2.4GHz frequency range, however because of congestion and the massive overuse of that range by all sorts of wireless devices, like Bluetooth, and home automation products. etc. etc There has been a move to open up the 5GHz range to personal use as well. So some products will be sold as 'Dual Band'. Obviously the 5GHz band isn't anywhere near as congested at the moment, so if you're looking to get away from wifi problems upgrading all of your wifi devices to dual band products will make all your wifi much better. Dual band products cost more though.

[Glaucon]

If getting a new router then make sure you get one that is thoroughly tested. I'd also be looking for something I can flash OpenWrt on, but that depends on how much you enjoy tinkering with it.

[tesco]

Thanks everyone for your posts. I ordered the E3000 from ncix.com, it should come tomorrow or the next day, though I don't know when I'll get to set it up. When I do I'll let you guys know the results.


I know this is coming in late in the conversation but have you tried a wifi analyzer app? I use one for my Android phone to put my router on a channel with the least interference. I got a couple neighbors that use channel 1 and 5 and thus get poor results if I use those channels or even adjacent channels. Channel 11 was the sweet spot for my case, excellent strength. Even if you do get a new router, I would still analyze your wifi for the best channel. I hope everything works out.
Do you know of a good app for iPhones that does that?
I didn't try every channel, just tried a few throughout the range. I def tried 1, 5 and 11 and a few others.
After each change I waited a minute, made sure the connection worked, then walked up the stairs with the laptop and always got the same result.

Also something interesting that I've now noticed is that my mouse was acting wierd for a few weeks, stuttering and sometimes clicks weren't registering. Now I've realized that the mouse works on 2.4gHz too! :O
The router I ordered is dualband so I can hopefully use the 5ghz band.

[mjmacky]

The router I ordered is dualband so I can hopefully use the 5ghz band.

Remember that it'll only be able to communicate on 5 GHz if the client WiFi device has that same capability. Though, you might already be aware of that.

[tesco]

The router I ordered is dualband so I can hopefully use the 5ghz band.

Remember that it'll only be able to communicate on 5 GHz if the client WiFi device has that same capability. Though, you might already be aware of that.
I am, though I don't know if it does.

[sandman_1]

Thanks everyone for your posts. I ordered the E3000 from ncix.com, it should come tomorrow or the next day, though I don't know when I'll get to set it up. When I do I'll let you guys know the results.


I know this is coming in late in the conversation but have you tried a wifi analyzer app? I use one for my Android phone to put my router on a channel with the least interference. I got a couple neighbors that use channel 1 and 5 and thus get poor results if I use those channels or even adjacent channels. Channel 11 was the sweet spot for my case, excellent strength. Even if you do get a new router, I would still analyze your wifi for the best channel. I hope everything works out.
Do you know of a good app for iPhones that does that?
I didn't try every channel, just tried a few throughout the range. I def tried 1, 5 and 11 and a few others.
After each change I waited a minute, made sure the connection worked, then walked up the stairs with the laptop and always got the same result.

Also something interesting that I've now noticed is that my mouse was acting wierd for a few weeks, stuttering and sometimes clicks weren't registering. Now I've realized that the mouse works on 2.4gHz too! :O
The router I ordered is dualband so I can hopefully use the 5ghz band.

Looks like Apple pulled *all* the Wifi Analyzer apps. :wacko:

You can still install it from the developer website but I don't think it works with IOS 5 or something. Don't know how you would do that since I have never owned a iphone.

[tesco]

Sounds like that would only work if I jailbreak. Oh well.
Aren't there any windows apps for that?

[yevgeny]

try this one, iirc tomato or dd-wrt has something similar. http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html

[Human_Being]

Reset Factory defaults/Buy new router!

P.S DID NOT READ

[mjmacky]

Sounds like that would only work if I jailbreak. Oh well.
Aren't there any windows apps for that?

I'm sorry Apple is intentionally harassing you, maybe I can suggest you switch to a better mobile OS while we're at it? :ninja:

[johhny]

maybe someone attacks your network it's a possibility.

[McScabb]

mine is doing the same thing and still have not found a good fic for it yet..hmmmmmmm

[esco123]

try changing the channels, it happened to me, and i cant change channels, i got to stick to one channel think it was channel 5

[tesco]

Well I set up the new router and still the same issue with the laptop, maybe to a lesser extent. She claims the internet is working fine but seems slower than before.
Here's what I see in the router logs:

Jan 16 18:16:13 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
Jan 16 18:16:22 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be
Jan 16 18:16:22 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
Jan 16 18:16:38 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be
Jan 16 18:16:38 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
Jan 16 18:16:52 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be
Jan 16 18:16:52 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
Jan 16 18:17:05 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be
Jan 16 18:17:05 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
Jan 16 18:17:19 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be
Jan 16 18:17:19 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
Jan 16 18:17:42 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be
Jan 16 18:17:42 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
Jan 16 18:18:08 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be
Jan 16 18:18:08 RT-98FC1153A32A daemon.info dnsmasq-dhcp[7457]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.138 78:dd:08:e3:67:be Laptop
On a positive note, the occasional issue I had with teh iphones has disappeared with the new router. So one unimportant issue fixed, one to go.I think the wireless card in the laptop is toast.


try changing the channels, it happened to me, and i cant change channels, i got to stick to one channel think it was channel 5
I've tried all the channels. :(

[mjmacky]

I can send you my USB wireless N stick, for free. Incidentally, I don't want to pay the shipping, so could you cover the $250 cost to post?

Seems slower than before? One guarantee is that the internal wireless does not have the capability to communicate on your newer higher frequency band. Based on your log, your connection keeps getting interrupted, hence reestablishing the DHCP lease with the requests and acknowledgments every 15 seconds. Have you tried updating the internal WiFi driver from the vendor's website? If you're ready to give up on the laptop's internal wireless card, and to get around all the other EM interference you're suffering from, maybe this little guy will get you around the issue:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833168044
There were more options on the US website, but this one seems like a good bet either way. If financial times are tough, I actually have a dual band USB stick that's gone unused.


Oh, one more thing. Your router should have a "DHCP Reservation" capability, which allows you hand out static intranet IP addresses based on each adapter's MAC address. This allows you to have a static IP environment while STILL allowing dynamic IP leasing for other non common connections (e.g. friends coming over). That might help with the laptop IP address leasing negotiations.

[tesco]

I can send you my USB wireless N stick, for free. Incidentally, I don't want to pay the shipping, so could you cover the $250 cost to post?

Seems slower than before? One guarantee is that the internal wireless does not have the capability to communicate on your newer higher frequency band. Based on your log, your connection keeps getting interrupted, hence reestablishing the DHCP lease with the requests and acknowledgments every 15 seconds. Have you tried updating the internal WiFi driver from the vendor's website? If you're ready to give up on the laptop's internal wireless card, and to get around all the other EM interference you're suffering from, maybe this little guy will get you around the issue:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833168044
There were more options on the US website, but this one seems like a good bet either way. If financial times are tough, I actually have a dual band USB stick that's gone unused.


Oh, one more thing. Your router should have a "DHCP Reservation" capability, which allows you hand out static intranet IP addresses based on each adapter's MAC address. This allows you to have a static IP environment while STILL allowing dynamic IP leasing for other non common connections (e.g. friends coming over). That might help with the laptop IP address leasing negotiations.
You're right connection is still using 2.4ghz. Actually all of my devices are.

The issue with that usb stick you posted is that its large, she uses the laptop in her bed and that would get broken fairly easily.
I was leaning towards these:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166052
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340021
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315091

But they are still just 2.4ghz, I haven't found one that small that does 5ghz, and furthermore they're probably less powerful that a full size usb stick.
I don't know what to do. :(

[mjmacky]

You're right connection is still using 2.4ghz. Actually all of my devices are.

The issue with that usb stick you posted is that its large, she uses the laptop in her bed and that would get broken fairly easily.
I was leaning towards these:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166052
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340021
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315091

But they are still just 2.4ghz, I haven't found one that small that does 5ghz, and furthermore they're probably less powerful that a full size usb stick.
I don't know what to do. :(

Well, you're right about that, they easily get broken when sticking out of your laptop. They are about 2 middle fingers in size. I had 3 Linksys dual band WiFi sticks at one point, and my wife broke 2 of them. The solution to that problem was to use the little USB extending dock, like this:

97420

When not broken, I was able to get 17 MB/s (136 Mbit/s) transfer rate between Windows 7 wireless laptop and Windows 7 Gigabit ethernet. It was using the 5 Ghz band. There are very few laptops that support dual band internally. The technology is not younger than a year, so I don't know why it's not yet a wide format.

P.S. I have not tried any of those small units yet, they look like the Logitech Unifying wireless adapters for mice and keyboards. My instinct reaction is that they wouldn't perform much better than the internal wireless (unless of course internal was fried).

[NotLettingItGo]

You're right connection is still using 2.4ghz. Actually all of my devices are.

The issue with that usb stick you posted is that its large, she uses the laptop in her bed and that would get broken fairly easily.
I was leaning towards these:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166052
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340021
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315091

But they are still just 2.4ghz, I haven't found one that small that does 5ghz, and furthermore they're probably less powerful that a full size usb stick.
I don't know what to do. :(

What laptop have you got?

It might be easier to replace the internal Wifi adapter, with something like this http://www.intel.com/products/wireless/wireless_n/overview.htm, there are loads of different makes and models, you just need to know what laptop you're fitting the card into to make sure you get one that fits.

[Anduril]

I have tha same problem. The router works on cable when the wireless down and go back when I restart the router.

[Frankthetank1]

http://www.dd-wrt.com

Unleash Your Router... two good guides
http://www.howtogeek.com/56810/how-to-extend-your-wireless-network-with-dd-wrt/

http://lifehacker.com/178132/hack-attack-turn-your-60-router-into-a-600-router

I just did this to my new router and you have so many new options available to you. Also the speeds are greater