Dimensions Of A Water Block For Amd Athlon Xp Cpu

[leonidas]

I'm going to buy a Waterblock to a guy, but he dosen't know if it fits on Amd Xp Athlon cpus. He gave me the measurements: (Length & width betwen the 4 screws site)

6.5 x 3.5 cm.

Is that ok?

[_John_Lennon_]

Most Waterblocks will fit on an AMD CPU, if they are amde for a socket A CPU, the main thing that comes into play is if it is notoriously too big and there comes problems with like capicators around the CPU sockets, or various other things around it.

I would just look for AMD waterblocks, read some reviews and u should be able to get a gerenal idea about how well they will fit, etc etc.

Gotta make sure u have the mounting holes too I beleive to mounting alot of waterblocks.

[clocker]

As near as I can tell, without pulling my motherboard out and removing the HSF, those dimensions are right.
What brand water block is this and why doesn't the seller know if it's appropriate for AMDs?

[leonidas]

Originally posted by clocker@3 December 2003 - 00:35
As near as I can tell, without pulling my motherboard out and removing the HSF, those dimensions are right.
What brand water block is this and why doesn't the seller know if it's appropriate for AMDs?
It's a homemade one. And the seller said that another guy told him it was for AMD. But the seller is not sure it can fit on an AMD cos he didn't tried it himself because he used it only for his P4. :wacko: That's the story :lol:

He sels it for 16 €. I think it's great. :)

Here are some photos of this waterblock: (It wasn't washed in the 2 first pic)

http://membres.lycos.fr/blqbestaflex/vtes/WB.jpg
http://membres.lycos.fr/blqbestaflex/vtes/WB2.jpg
http://membres.lycos.fr/blqbestaflex/WB/apres6.jpg

[clocker]

Originally posted by leonidas@2 December 2003 - 16:52


He sels it for 16 €. I think it's great. :)


I am skeptical, leonidas.
All of the dual-use blocks that I have seen have twosets of holes, one for AMD and one for Intel. They are close but not the same. If that block works on an Intel then I doubt that it will fit your AMD.

Also, the design of waterblocks is fairly sophisticated. Do you have any idea what the flowpath of the coolant is like in that one? It could be great, homemade doesn't necessarily mean bad, but the fact is, you cant open it up and see.

How is that meant to mount to the motherboard? What keeps it from cocking and cracking your chip?

I'd be very careful with this unit...you may save some money and be very happy, but it's just as likely that you could be in for a lot of trouble....

[leonidas]

Originally posted by clocker+3 December 2003 - 01:20--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (clocker &#064; 3 December 2003 - 01:20)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-leonidas@2 December 2003 - 16:52


He sels it for 16 €. I think it&#39;s great. :)


I am skeptical, leonidas.
All of the dual-use blocks that I have seen have twosets of holes, one for AMD and one for Intel. They are close but not the same. If that block works on an Intel then I doubt that it will fit your AMD.

Also, the design of waterblocks is fairly sophisticated. Do you have any idea what the flowpath of the coolant is like in that one? It could be great, homemade doesn&#39;t necessarily mean bad, but the fact is, you cant open it up and see.

How is that meant to mount to the motherboard? What keeps it from cocking and cracking your chip?

I&#39;d be very careful with this unit...you may save some money and be very happy, but it&#39;s just as likely that you could be in for a lot of trouble.... [/b][/quote]
He said he fixed it to his p4 and board with fixings he made himself.
I will fix it with care, regarding what you&#39;re saying.

About performances, he told me that the waterblock worked well on a AMD Xp 1700 18 µ which I checked is the same wattage as the barton 2500 I&#39;m going to buy (1700=64.0watts / Barton2500=68.30watts) And as I won&#39;t overclock anything at the beguining, I guess it will be ok and I can even switch later for a great 50€-60€ one.
Also the guy does seem to be a reliable personn. he has written on his signature that he&#39;s a moderator and testor of a couple of french hardware dedicated forums. Plus I will meet him for the transaction. So I will see the Waterblock before paying anything.

Just a question: Will I need some special fixings even if the holes of the wb are fitting with the holes of the motherboard ?

[clocker]

I have seen several methods used to attach the water block.

One way uses brackets which are screwed to the board and then the block screws to the brackets. Zalman uses this method.

The other common method is to use screws, springs and spacers.

However you mount it, the trick is to make sure that it is firmly against the chip and also flat, making full contact.

The seller should be able to help you out with suggestions.

[leonidas]

Ok thanks a lot :)

[clocker]

Have you decided on the other components for this setup yet?
Pump, radiator, etc.?

I&#39;d be very interested in how this works out for you leonidas, as I&#39;m about ready to begin doing the same thing...

[leonidas]

I&#39;m going to make it "homemade" exept for the pump. I will take one which is used for aquariums, an "eheim". They don&#39;t make noise at all if you fix them corectly, and they are corectly powerfull and cheap. A guy told me that he had to touch it with his hands each time he started his computer, to check if it was working as it made no noise :lol:

I&#39;ll inform you later when I set all that up.

[clocker]

Ehiem pumps come very highly recommended, that is what I want to use also.

Radiator?

I&#39;ve thought that a heater core from a car might be just the ticket.

Big and cheap, if you get it from a junkyard.

[leonidas]

Originally posted by clocker@3 December 2003 - 23:28
Ehiem pumps come very highly recommended, that is what I want to use also.

Radiator?

I&#39;ve thought that a heater core from a car might be just the ticket.

Big and cheap, if you get it from a junkyard.
Sorry for not responding before I&#39;m quite busy those days :)

For the radiator, I have two projects:

1°) As I don&#39;t have any tools to weld, and as I don&#39;t know and don&#39;t wan&#39;t to spend time washing a car heater, I will buy a 8-12 metters slack copper tubes of 10/12cm diameter:
http://membres.lycos.fr/roscool/images/articles/art8/bobine.jpg , and I will just make a spiral of it. It wil be a huge radiator but the water flow power will be off course decreased.

2°) find someone who can make me something like that:

http://www.webx.dk/oz2cpu/pcmod/z-radiator-construction009.jpg
http://www.webx.dk/oz2cpu/pcmod/z-radiator-construction029.jpg

http://www.webx.dk/oz2cpu/pcmod/zero-fan-watercooling.htm

And always use copper&#33;&#33; Some people might say that aluminium dissipate the heat better, but they&#39;re wrong, I&#39;ve red stuff from the website of the administrator of this same watercooling related forum. The guy is a phisician or something: I hope you can read that: :lol: http://membres.lycos.fr/roscool/articles.php?id=8&page=0

[clocker]

Interesting.
A passive radiator.
Precisely what I had in mind also.

Your coiled tubing concept would need to be immersed in water I think, to be very effective at all.

[leonidas]

Originally posted by clocker@5 December 2003 - 00:37
Your coiled tubing concept would need to be immersed in water I think, to be very effective at all.
Well I&#39;ve been told on this forum that a eheim 1250 will do the job, and that this methode in general is efficient, but only if you don&#39;t overclock.
So it might be ok :) But there&#39;s always a perfect value for the lenght of the tube. What I mean is: If you choose a lower or higher value your Cpu vill increase in temperature, due to the fact that the longer your tube is, the less flow speed you get. That&#39;s a big point.

Ps : Have a look to what I edited about copper if you haven&#39;t already did it. This is important.

[leonidas]

Oh&#33; and very important too: All the things I told you ( Which pump should be powerfull enough ect...) are about my Barton 2500. I don&#39;t know if it will cool enough other CPUs

[clocker]

I understand your point, leonidas.

My point is that plain copper tubing, all by itself is not a very effective radiator ( especially if it&#39;s radiating into the air) because of the ratio of surface area to volume.
You simply don&#39;t have enough surface area to dissipate much heat in the distance with which you have to work.

Your second choice is much better, provided that a good ( and continuous) job of soldering is done.

[leonidas]

Originally posted by clocker@5 December 2003 - 01:06
I understand your point, leonidas.

My point is that plain copper tubing, all by itself is not a very effective radiator ( especially if it&#39;s radiating into the air) because of the ratio of surface area to volume.
You simply don&#39;t have enough surface area to dissipate much heat in the distance with which you have to work.

Your second choice is much better, provided that a good ( and continuous) job of soldering is done.
Yes off course. But it&#39;s hard to make. you gotta have a very powerfull blowtorch and you must off course be able to master it, and be very carefull twisting the copper tube.


Your coiled tubing concept would need to be immersed in water I think, to be very effective at all.
Why not using a home made hermetic aquarium as a radiator then :lol: :huh: May be a good idea :o

[clocker]

It would be a very good idea sir.

I have seen it done.

Just drop your coil of tubing into a container of water and I&#39;ll bet your temps drop by 10-15%.

[leonidas]

Originally posted by clocker@5 December 2003 - 01:19
It would be a very good idea sir.

I have seen it done.

Just drop your coil of tubing into a container of water and I&#39;ll bet your temps drop by 10-15%.
yes but I mean why just not using all the water contained in the aquarium to cool the whole thing? It will work better, and prevent the rusting problem you might have putting the copper under water.

[_John_Lennon_]

Speaking of watercooling methods, I think you guys might find this method interesting.

http://www.overclockers.com/articles389/index.asp


I found it awhile back, and plan to do it in about 8 months when I start school for my senior year of high schhol (For a senior project that all seniors are required at me school to do, to pass.)

I am typing up a paper now, but I have read up throughly on it, and would be glad to dicuss it with you perhaps tomorrow or something, when I check back on this thread.

Gn.

[clocker]

That is a very cool system there, John.

Too bad my climate is so dry.
My humidifier goes through 6 gallons of water a day.

[_John_Lennon_]

Yeah, thats the ONLY drawback im really seeing to the system that would worry me, is how often you would be refilling it.

Well, that fact, and the amount of water you put in would increase the contamination in the water loop, if you slacked off and just used regular tap water.

[clocker]

I don&#39;t have too much trouble with contamination in the humidifier and I use tap water, but it&#39;s not exactly the same so the comparison may be invalid.

An open ended system like that just offends my sense of propiety.
But it sure seems to work, doesn&#39;t it?

[_John_Lennon_]

1. Well, your would be putting in alot more water into the evaporative cooling system so over time you would be increaing the amount of other stuff in there, etc etc.

2. And yeah, it does look like it would work, as soon as next fall rolls around, first day of school im starting on it&#33;&#33;&#33;

Heh, its a long way off I know, but cant wait.