Case Design

yeah wood can be heavy, but you have lots of wood in colarado so no worry (just hope some lady doesn't get mad reading a letter from her boyfriend again :flame: :P )

i agree with plexi... cheap a little stronger (hell my case is made entirely out of plexi) and there are rumored "plexi bits" that make perfect holes, and cuts in plexi... staus lights are good i use them for at a glance diagnostic, while to the casual person they are just there for decore...

you do cars, what kind of tools/milling/metal working equip do you have, you could make a rival lian li (sp???) case of your own... :D

yeah and probably a way for all the switched to be in front and easy access, and not entending past the frame, so that if ipick it up i am not pressing any buttons/potentailly ripping one off...

and if it is at all a Lan Party comp, then it needs to be transportable, if the cooling unit is seperate then make it disconnecablte, or more simply put an in and out port in the back to hook up the h20 lines to...

Al, I don't even know what a "LAN party" is, so I probably won't be attending any soon.
I have a mill, 3 lathes and various and assorted matal/wood working tools of my own and access to almost anything else.

I may just cobble a prototype up out of plywood or something equally cheap and easy.
Seeing as how often I change stuff it might be a good idea...

Quote:

---

Al, I don't even know what a "LAN party" is, so I probably won't be attending any soon.

---

lan party involves carieying ones computer around allot, (the reason for minis...)

umm yeah proto version should be wood... you can patch holes you don't want etc... but if you really went the distence, you could machine an aluminum case after you have the temperate zones etc how you want them... that would be kickass ya know... and if you keep it thin, then you should have no problems modding if you HAD too... (i imagine you will be moving fans and stuff, but at the point of making a metal one you would feel confident that air intakes are going to be the same place etc... along with the other elements of design... )


also, if you made a metal case, i am just now wondering about it, what if you used the metal of the case as a heatsink... don't know how... but ya know huge peece of metal... COULD be used...

Also in regard to the heatpipes, i was thinking that if applied right one could heatpipe things like the PSU, and northbridge as well, possibly to the point at wich the case no longer requires fans, or at least a much more passive heat dissapation plan... that also would make it quiter... i am currently working on a completly passive case cooling set up... the heat pipe will be the top of the case, just a huge grill... and then all compenets will be hooked up to it that don't require the performance cooling of the likes of the CPU, Video card... That is my goal, the only things that are making noise, are hard drives, optical drives, and the water pump... this will also be focussing on performance of course...

Quote:

---

Originally posted by SciManAl@30 November 2003 - 03:15

also, if you made a metal case, i am just now wondering about it, what if you used the metal of the case as a heatsink... don't know how... but ya know huge peece of metal... COULD be used...

---

That seems like it would work.......

Oh and Clocker, that switch looks like it would work perfectly, one to each of the 3 pins, excellant planning.

I like the idea of your cmos switch, but I would prefer to see a "momentary contact" type so it can't accidentally be left in the wrong position - I've seen motherbards blown by leaving the jumper in the "clear" position and then switched on.

I realise that power/reset type switches don't meet the requirements, but there are a few "double throw" push button switches around. I think I would probably fit it into the back panel, so that it is away from prying fingers.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by _John_Lennon_+30 November 2003 - 03:08--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (_John_Lennon_ &#064; 30 November 2003 - 03:08)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteBegin-SciManAl@30 November 2003 - 03:15

also, if you made a metal case, i am just now wondering about it, what if you used the metal of the case as a heatsink...&nbsp; don&#39;t know how... but ya know huge peece of metal...&nbsp; COULD be used...

---

That seems like it would work.......

[/b][/quote]
Of course it would work, guys. Zalman has already done it.
http://www.enscape.net/140/001.jpg

wow :o :huh: :P great&#33;&#33;&#33;

This
looks like it would be right up your alley, SciMan.

And this is the convection radiator that I found. Looks real nice, but I have been unable to find any performance specs or reviews of it yet.

Clocker if you realy want to get water cooling be sure to check out this cpu block :
http://www.highspeedpc.com/Merchant2/merch...egory_Code=Rev3 ive read alot of good things about it

Thanks Racer, I&#39;ve seen that block and the reviews are very good.
Plus, it has a very cool mounting system.

Unfortunately, the mounting makes the use of Peltier plates impossible and that is something that I want to leave open for future experiments.

Sigh.

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1093/CPUairduct.jpg
That&#39;s interesting, clocker. Thanks.

clocker i have also seen the InnovaKonvekt-o-Matic Passive Radiator and i think it will work ok, but if you love leaving your computer on forever yhan this might not be for you... over time it will gain heat... however that is an example of what it will take fo a passive cooler, of course you could always tuck this cooler in the fridge... :P (i don&#39;t know if mini fridges are worth the cost, but you could snugg that right next to your comp...)

ewww i just thought, what if you take the InnovaKonvekt-o-Matic Passive Radiator and put it in a tank of something, like liqaud oxigen... that would give you extreme cooling potential, the case might not need any fans, simply because all the really hot stuff ie CPu north briodge, hdds, PSU, vid card, are having thier heat removed from the case... just an idead that has been done before...

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Virtualbody1234@30 November 2003 - 09:08
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1093/CPUairduct.jpg
That&#39;s interesting, clocker. Thanks.

---

What struck me about that pic, VB, is that with all his interest in maximizing/ directing airflow, he doesn&#39;t appear to have taken even the most rudimentary steps towards clearing his case of obstructions.
The wiring is a mess.

I suppose that if you&#39;re willing to run your case wide open then that&#39;s no big deal, but even so... :(

I also think that his 90mm fan on the case back is ludicrous. It is so blocked by his duct that I don&#39;t see how it could be very effective.
It should be on the roof...

clock you seem to have endless amounts of time, so test it for yourself :) ;)

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Kunal@30 November 2003 - 10:07
clock you seem to have endless amounts of time, so test it for yourself :) ;)

---

Actually I have another idea.

And it doesn&#39;t involve cardboard and duct tape...

Quote:

---

Originally posted by clocker@30 November 2003 - 18:10
Actually I have another idea.

And it doesn&#39;t involve cardboard and duct tape..

---

which is? (sorry trying to get 1000 posts&#33; number 999 and counting....)

Edit: Well Got Me 1000 Posts&#33; :D :D :D

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Kunal+30 November 2003 - 10:13--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Kunal @ 30 November 2003 - 10:13)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-clocker@30 November 2003 - 18:10
Actually I have another idea.

And it doesn&#39;t involve cardboard and duct tape..

---

which is? (sorry trying to get 1000 posts&#33; number 999 and counting....)

Edit: Well Got Me 1000 Posts&#33; :D :D :D [/b][/quote]
Post whore.

I&#39;m working on my idea.
Pics will follow if results are good.

If they aren&#39;t, then just forget I said anything...

Quote:

---

Originally posted by clocker@30 November 2003 - 18:20
Post whore.

---

look who&#39;s talking :rolleyes:

Quote:

---

Originally posted by clocker@30 November 2003 - 11:59
What struck me about that pic, VB, is that with all his interest in maximizing/ directing airflow, he doesn&#39;t appear to have taken even the most rudimentary steps towards clearing his case of obstructions.
The wiring is a mess.

---

Yeah I know. The nerve of him to even put a picture of it like that on the internet. :angry:

He&#39;s Canadian, isn&#39;t he?

Perhaps you should have a word with him.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by clocker@30 November 2003 - 12:29
He&#39;s Canadian, isn&#39;t he?

Perhaps you should have a word with him.

---

Over some beer&#39;s and a hockey game...... :rolleyes:

Just poking. :)

Quote:

---

Originally posted by _John_Lennon_+29 November 2003 - 05:09--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (_John_Lennon_ @ 29 November 2003 - 05:09)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-clocker@29 November 2003 - 00:03
I was thinking somewhat along those lines, John.

A feat not possible in a normal case due to the PCI slots.

---

I know I dont use my bottom 3 PCI slots so it would fit on mine. [/b][/quote]
Yeah, but then your PSU would be so close to your graphics card...not good

Hey clocker... Just for you&#33; http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/k/l/klh340/

Following up on the idea of heat disposal in a different area, I suppose the next step would be to use some sort of refrigeration unit. A small household freezer would be ideal, with a couple of holes drilled through the side for pipework and the radiator placed inside.

The drawback to this is the low temps involved in the freezer. Using water as the transfer medium would not be practical, even with antifreeze, and I personally think that alcohol is too flamable to be a safe alternative.

So I was thinking along the lines of using silicone based oil instead. Although it can be a little messy if spilt (to say the least), it has a relatively high flashpoint and a high heat capacity. More importantly it is non-conductive. A drawback is it&#39;s higher viscosity, so it is essential that a centrifugal type pump is used, rather than a gear pump. A household central heating pump would be ideal.

I&#39;ve been wondering where I could put such a freezer, and it has just struck me that the loft space immediately above would be ideal. There&#39;s already power up there, all I need is a small hole in the ceiling for the pipework. Better still, these sort of units are best unpressurised, so some sort of open bath is necessary. Obviously this is best at the top of the system, so a small tank sitting on top of the freezer would fit the bill.

All this is going to take a while, and I&#39;ll have to find out where we used to get silicone oil, so any results are likely to be some time away even if it is feasible.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Virtualbody1234@30 November 2003 - 20:58
Hey clocker... Just for you&#33; http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/k/l/klh340/

---

Did someone say "Finding Nemo"? :lol:

Lol @ http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/k/...baby/fish1.jpg

actually if you are going to get a mini fridge, (or freezer or whatever) probably the best thing to do is simply put it all in there, minus the case of course.. just put it all inside.... a stylish Bawls cooler with a comp in it... hehehehe

but if you just want to put the radiater in it, then might i remind you that you gett to choose the temps in those things via a dial somewhere in the back... so you don&#39;t have to have subzero temps, just really cold temps... as cold as you want temps... lol

some nice ideas places, i was thinking about my own case to, but its alot of work involved,

another idea kind of on the lines as lynx.

if u are putting it up in the attic, why not dip the radiator in the water tank if u have one, as this will be pretty cool, and no need for extra noise etc. since the tank gets water through it quite quick, toilets, using water, showers baths etc and since it fed staright fromt he mains pipe.

lynx,
Look into aircraft brake fluid, it has some very interesting properties and may fit the bill.

VB,
An interesting effort, but I wonder why the fish tank is purely decorative instead of doing some work?

SciMan & Lynx,

I&#39;ve been looking into "dorm refridgerators" ( basically just very small units) as a method of cooling the radiator. Might work, and they are cheap.

It&#39;s doing some work. Look at the CPU in this pic:

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/k/.../open_back.jpg

Yes, but he(?) says in the text that the aquarium water and the cooling water never mix. The aquarium doesn&#39;t even help cool the radiator. It&#39;s purely a deception.

It&#39;s a she:

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/k/...hmobaby/me.jpg

I&#39;ll read into it further. I found this in a magazine contest. She was the winner.

How come she doesn&#39;t post in here?

Quote:

---

Originally posted by clocker@30 November 2003 - 19:40
How come she doesn&#39;t post in here?

---

I don&#39;t know?

Maybe we have to invite her. :)

Well, she&#39;s certainly not using silicone. :D

clocker,
I suspect any brake fluid may fit the bill with regards to most of the required properties (I don&#39;t know about it&#39;s thermal capacity but I imagine it would be similar). I suspect it (and particularly aircraft bf) may be relatively expensive though, since it has to withstand extremes of temperature which wouldn&#39;t be required for this sort of project.

I would hesitate to use standard brake fluid because of it&#39;s property of absorbing water, as I&#39;m not sure what effect this would have on it&#39;s thermal properties, but it certainly has very low viscosity so it is worth investigating. The use of a brake fluid reservoir would certainly be a good idea for the header tank.

not a bad she to invite... hehehehe :P

yeah "dorm" fridges.. or just the coling units inside i think could be well worth looking into...

Quote:

---

Originally posted by lynx@1 December 2003 - 02:33
Well, she&#39;s certainly not using silicone. :D

clocker,
I suspect any brake fluid may fit the bill with regards to most of the required properties (I don&#39;t know about it&#39;s thermal capacity but I imagine it would be similar). I suspect it (and particularly aircraft bf) may be relatively expensive though, since it has to withstand extremes of temperature which wouldn&#39;t be required for this sort of project.

I would hesitate to use standard brake fluid because of it&#39;s property of absorbing water, as I&#39;m not sure what effect this would have on it&#39;s thermal properties, but it certainly has very low viscosity so it is worth investigating. The use of a brake fluid reservoir would certainly be a good idea for the header tank.

---

what about the oil the put in the small radiators u can buy in the shops, i wouldnt have thought that would have been hard to come by,
and it will be doing the same thing, getting heated by the cpu, and transferring the heat outside.

The "dorm" fridge is the sort of thing I was thinking about earlier. Or alternatively a very small freezer, if you want lower temps. I think it would be important to keep the integrity of the unit, so that it could be filled with water bottles (for a fridge) or ice packs (for a freezer) in order to absorb temperature fluctuations. The alternative would be to put the cooling coil into an oil (or other fluid) reservoir, but this would then mean a much larger quantity of expensive fluid, and a bigger header tank.

Livy, your idea of putting the radiator into a loft water tank is a good idea, except for the fact that I&#39;ve just ripped mine out in favour of instant water heating. :lol:

The oil for oil-filled radiators is quite heavy and realtively viscous. Since it is used for heating only I&#39;m not sure it would be too good at low temps, and certainly isn&#39;t designed to be pumped around.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by lynx@1 December 2003 - 03:02
Livy, your idea of putting the radiator into a loft water tank is a good idea, except for the fact that I&#39;ve just ripped mine out in favour of instant water heating. :lol:

The oil for oil-filled radiators is quite heavy and realtively viscous. Since it is used for heating only I&#39;m not sure it would be too good at low temps, and certainly isn&#39;t designed to be pumped around.

---

oh well, worth a go. i thought you would still have a tank for cold water. as thats what mines is for, the only tap that runs of the actual mains pipe directly is the kitchen tap.

and it would keep it cool, and its would be easy to do.