Yeah bikes let's go with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snee
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Yeah bikes let's go with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snee
Incidentally, I know a whole lot about what it feels like to roll with the wrong saddle, and a ~3" too large frame, even, for long-ish runs (20+ miles). Painful.
I rode a vintage racer, anno 1979, fitted with one of these. Oddly enough, that bike is what got me really into riding, this time around. Before it, I'd had a long brake from bikes, and before that I started off with bmx, then went over to mtbs, via standard bikes.
I currently find myself fitting bmx bits to my folding bike, so maybe I'm coming full circle soon.
Looks like I'm going to be measuring my seat bones on some cardboard, sounds strangely exciting.
For reference, here's the front part of the bike.
Attachment 115500
I went and ordered this based on mine being 1 1/8" threadless.
Attachment 115501
It's the first time I thought of a stem raiser as not being a scantily dressed little girl. :ohmy:
If you have your saddle set at what you think is a good height and it isn't above the line that says "Don't raise above this line or you will possibly suffer a painful death " line then your frame should be OK to live with,even if you intended to anyway.
Now how much lower is the top of your handlebars than the top of your saddle? Just curious ,not going to try and make you do anything.
Mine's 10 cm which isn't advisable but then I'm a wank.
Hard to tell, but looks about 4" which is 10 cm. What's it supposed to be?Quote:
Originally Posted by IdolEyes787
Some would say a lot less than that. Bodies aren't cookie cutter though so whateverworks for you works for you.:)
Usually though you start high and adapt. Other than that tourists may have it level or close to because to them comfort is more important than going fast via aerodynamics while pro's have been steadily getting lower year by year.
A couple of inches used to be the rule but now you see 5 or more as often as not.
One - two at the Tour Contador's and Andy Schleck's bikes for instance.
Attachment 115506
Attachment 115505
Used to only see something like that on the track.
Remember in the end you are the only one that knows what is comfortable for you.
Nice front end btw.:)
http://forums.competitor.com/topic/7266
It should be noted though that brake hoods used to set lower on the bars though and as most people spend the majority of their time on the hoods the overall effect probably isn't that much lower than it used to be.
I think eventually I'd be able to get more comfortable with the current height, but right now having to keep my head bent up over 45 degrees was a bit of a pain. I'd like to be able to relax and keep pace upright and not always have to focus on pedaling like an angry demon.
I knew in the end this would be all things exploration, which is why I'm glad I didn't spend too much on my first bike. I could see myself selling this bike and buying one more expensive and attuned to my personal tastes (at which point I'll have a better sense of what that is) a year or so down the road. I'm a creature of strategy and troubleshooting, I can't help but find myself amused to see it enter into every aspect of my life :happy:
If that should put the bar too close for comfort, the next step will be to either switch out the stem for a longer one, or the seatpost for one with more offset.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Thomson-Elite-Setback-Seatpost
or
http://www.jensonusa.com/Profile-Des...rward-Seatpost
For the latter, maybe, if they fit the frame.
I'm just picking stores in the US I've heard of at random, btw. Ordering from the former workplace of bicycle Jesus if you did, though - That is FTW.
Also, I'm liking the Dimension raiser better as well. Two smaller bolts compared to one big one and it's black, and idk about Zoom as a brand. I've seen Zoom bars, seatposts and really shitty suspension forks fitted to very low end department store bikes, and was not impressed. But then again, the same bikes had shimano gearing, so. Dimension makes forks I've seen get good reviews, at least.
edit: Oh, and in that pic it does look a bit as if you could turn the stem upside down. But maybe it's just the angle in which it was taken.
Btw: If you think you'll end up doing a lot of adjustments to your bike, a torque wrench which comes with allen key sockets (and others, ofc) might be worth it. I generally wing it, but if you're gonna do it absolutely properly, different parts often have different tolerances stamped on them, in nm, which you can follow when tightening them.
Other useful things would be a set of allen keys, or maybe two - one with mm measurements, one with inches, and then wire cutters (for gear- and brake cabling), a tube of grease (when joining metal parts together, say pedals to cranks, you put some in between to avoid creaking) and cables ties (useful for all sorts of things). That generally does it for most things bike related. You want tyre tools and a spare tube too, ofc. It's annoying as hell getting home with a puncture and having to walk back and buy new tubes. Also, new tubes aren't expensive, so don't bother with puncture repair kits, imo. And get a pump that works with presta valves.
Another tip is to switch out quick releases for allen key, or similar, ones on the seat clamp and wheels, if you leave the bike locked outside in the city a lot. You shouldn't do that, but still.