I go to turn my 360 on today i got only audio no video. I have had it since launch with no problem. Less then a week before halo im so pissed.:angry: I guess i got to send it back and wait 2 months.:cry:
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I go to turn my 360 on today i got only audio no video. I have had it since launch with no problem. Less then a week before halo im so pissed.:angry: I guess i got to send it back and wait 2 months.:cry:
ha ha ha,shit.
I wish mine would die now versus when it's out of warranty.:ermm:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trickology
cant you get it repaired?
Ring microsoft tell em ya got rings of death,they pick it up and return it free only to 2 weeks and i was back online,well here in the uk any way good luck mateQuote:
Originally Posted by Trickology
I was told yesterday x-box 360's have over 30% failure rate. Very surprising but still didn't put me off getting one and thankfully a working one (until i butcher its insides for some free games!)
30% and the rest, Mine went the same way, No video, after the warrenty ran out, I wont be getting another 360 until i know they have been fixed 100%, Which will most likely be next year some time.
try working on the colors... you know Pal/ntsc
Welcome. This guide will explain how to fix the 3 red lights error on your Xbox 360. This is a great thing to do because Microsoft is charging way to much to have it fixed (if you don't have a warranty**). This is a long and detailed guide so make sure you read everything.
**IF YOU HAVE A WARRANTY, YOU SHOULD BE ON THE PHONE WITH MICROSOFT GETTING A REPAIR ARRANGED RIGHT NOW!!
Note: What you do to your xbox 360 is a result of your own actions and is completely and fully your own responsibility. I take no responsibility at all if your xbox 360 becomes damaged or messed up due to this guide.
However, I can assure you that I have used these exact guidelines and have successfully fixed a few Xbox 360 red light errors!
What You Need:
*
An Xbox 360 with the red lights error.
* Torx T8 and T10 screwdrivers (available at Lowes/Home Depot)
* A heat gun (I used Wagner HT 1000 from sears)
*
Internet connection to view videos and pictures.
A few notes before you get started:
*
Since the process of fixing your xbox 360 is a pretty complex one, it is important that you always pay close attention to the instructions in your guide, because it is very easy to mess up.
*
MAKE SURE YOU unplug both the AV cable and POWER CABLE FROM YOUR XBOX 360 to avoid any safety hazards because xbox has a rep for blowing up in peoples' faces.
*
If you ever get lost or feel that you have messed up on any step in this guide, just start over from a few previous steps, making sure that you read carefully and that you carried out the processes exactly as described.
Here we go....
1) After making sure that your xbox 360 has the red light error this guide will fix (flashing red lights, top-right quadrant is dark), go ahead and unplug the xbox 360 from the power and the TV. Also, if you have a hard disk drive, disconnect that as well, as we will have to strip all the various parts of the xbox 360 to get down to where the problem is.
Follow the directions on the following webpage to take these plastic parts off your xbox:
http://www.xboxchopshop.com/catalog/man_360_open.php
2)
4-1) Remove hard drive first. (Just Like In Picture)
4-2) Remove Face Plate. (Just Like In Picture)
4-3) Remove the grey ends is next and is pretty self explanatory. I would use a
Large paper clip bent out with two ends exposed because it is less likely to
damage Xbox 360 surface. CLICK ON ALL PICTURES TO SEE CLOSEUP OF
PICTURES!
FOLLOW PICTURES
4-4) Where it says "START ON THE LEFT TABS, AND TRY TO FORCE THE
GREY END OUT".... read that but before you jam a sharp object in the hole
look closely and you'll see the 2 release tabs built into the walls , ONE on that
side where you see the object prodding and also on the left side. Just put it in
and the touch the end of pointy object towards the wall where tab is resting and
press gently and the grey cover will release.
FOLLOW PICTURES
4-5) Click on "Page 2: Removing the Case."
4-6) Microsoft Seal just remove it and don't even think twice about it.
4-7) Remove the case Bottom: I would definately use a small FLATHEAD
screwdriver otherwise you'll put jam marks in the plastic and it might not seal
right when you are trying to put the case back together. Do it gently but
forcefully enough to move the tab inward and start from the right side doing one
at a time to the left side. Its a little harder than all of the steps up to this point
but you can do it just keep trying to click tabs in and pulling apart the top
and bottom at same time gently.
FOLLOW PICTURES
4-8) After that unclip the front 4 clips and you should be able to remove case.
4-9) Now Flip Xbox 360 over and remove all the screw as per the picture
illustrated (also click on picture to make larger) and screws circled in blue
T10 screwdriver and yellow T8 screwdriver. The 6 that are circled blue with red
arrows pointing to them are longer 2 1/2 inch screws that hold the top of 360
on. The little grey circled in blue are the motherboard and also usb, dvd,
memory slots etc. The little black screws circled in yellow are for the
motherboard Heat Sink and Heat Sink Connectors, which we'll further discuss
later.
FOLLOW PICTURES
4-10) Now flip the 360 back right side up and before removing the top cover
gently pull the dvd eject button outward so the case can lift clear.
4-11) Now the top cover should lift off completely.
5-1) Next click on "Page 3 Inside the 360"
5-2) Remove the DVD eject button with a small flathead screwdriver underneath
the white plastic tab, pry it gentlely until it pops off.
5-3) Next, remove DVD drive lifting it straight up gentlely and do not pull it all the
way out because you will have 2 plugs attached to it. Unplug the black one first
by gentlly pulling left to right and pulling straight off. Next, do the same with the
white plug. Once they are unattached, you can completely lift the DVD drive out
of the 360.
5-4) Next, remove the White Air Scoop by putting a small flathead in the little
tiny hole with the black tab. Press the small flathead screwdriver down lightly
and lift on the Air Scoop gently straight up.
5-5) You will then see a dual black fan that is located in front of where the Air
Scoop used to be. First, unplug the 4-prong small square white plug located
to the left of the dual black fans pulling up and out. You remove the dual black
fan by pulling gently on the metal bracket that is directly on top of the dual
black fans and pull it gently up and away from 360 unit. Once you pull
gently on the metal bracket, pull the dual black fans slightly backwards
down and out.
5-6) Next, where the Power On Button
used to be on the front right side of the
X-Box 360 with your finger nail lift off the white plastic 4 quadrant piece by
lifting up gently. The piece should come off and now remove the 3 small screws
and then gently hold the edges of the Power On Chipboard and pull straight out
very gently. You will see on the back of that Chipboard a small USB like Male
piece.
6-1) Removing the Motherboard is a little tricky but all you have to do is hold on
to the CPU Heat Sink (which looks like a mini radiator with fins which you
would see in your baseboard heating). (It is also the largest and tallest piece
on the Motherboard.)
and hold the shiny silver box like USB port and pull very gently with the front of
the motherboard coming up evenly out first. Then gently slide the back out
slowly and carefully. REMEMBER, WHEN YOU HANDLE THE
MOTHERBOARD HOLD THE EDGES OR ONE OF THE CPU HEAT SINK
PIECES BECAUSE THEY ARE THE STURDIEST, OTHERWISE YOU MIGHT
DAMAGE THE CIRCUITRY THAT IS BUILT INTO THE BOARD.
THIS IS THE TRICKIEST PART SO PLEASE PAY CLOSE ATTENTION!!
WHAT I WANT YOU TO DO IS NOW CLICK ON THIS LINK NEW WEB PAGE
http://www.informit.com/articles/art...&seqNum=2&rl=1
AND GO DOWN TO #19 AND READ IT AND THEN LOOK AT FIGURE #9
FIRST. OPEN THAT PICTURE AND THE CPU HEAT SINK WHICH IS JUST
MENTIONED ABOVE IS THE STURDIEST AND TALLEST PART ON THE
MOTHERBOARD. IN THE DIAGRAM IT IS THE LARGER AND TALLER OF
THE TWO BIG SQUARE HEAT SINKS( HAS LITTLE COPPER PIPE TUBING
SHOWING). THE SMALLER, FLATTER, SILVERISH ONE IS THE HEAT
SINK WHICH WE HAVE TO REMOVE TO GET TO THE GPU CHIP WHICH IS
LOCATED DIRECTLY UNDER IT.
NOW IF YOU FLIP OVER THE MOTHERBOARD YOU WILL SEE 2 X
CONNECTORS LIKE SHOWN IN FIGURE # 10. THE "X" CONNECTOR
DIRECTLY UNDER THE SMALLER, FLATTER, SILVERISH HEAT SINK IS
THE ONE WE WANT TO REMOVE.
HERE COMES THE FUN PART AND THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE
PROJECT, NOT TOO HARD IF I DID IT :0)
TAKE A NEEDLE NOSE PLIER AND GRAB THE END OF ONE OF THE "X"
CONNECTOR, PREFERABLY TOWARDS THE END OF THE "X" NOT LIKE
WHERE THE TOOL IS POINTING TO IN FIGURE # 10 BUT INSTEAD THE
END WHERE THE ADJACENT "X" ISN'T IN THE WAY. (IN OTHER WORDS
THE FIRST PART OF THE "X" YOU WANT TO UNCLIP IS NOT TOWARDS
THE MIDDLE OF THE MOTHERBOARD BUT RATHER TOWARDS THE END)
GOT IT?
NOW TAKE THE PLIERS AND GRAB THE TIPPY END OF THE "X"
CONNECTOR AND WHILE YOU HAVE IT FIRMLY GRIPPED WIGGLE THE
PLIERS TO TRY TO UNSEAT THE "X" FROM THE PEG THAT IS COMING
OFF THE SMALLER, FLATTER, SILVERISH HEAT SINK. IT MAY TAKE
SOME TIME MAYBE 3-4 MINUTES BUT JUST BE GENTLE AND DILIGENT
AND EVENTUALY ONE PART OF THE "X" WILL POP OFF. AFTER IT DOES
DO THE OTHER ONE OF THE "X" CONNECTORS RIGHT NEXT TO IT ON
THE END. AFTER THAT ONE POPS OFF GENTLY PUSH "X" TOWARDS
THE 2 SIDES OF "X" CONNECTOR (TOWARDS MIDDLE NEXT TO OTHER
"X" CONNECTOR THAT WE ARE NOT REMOVING) THAT IS STILL
ATTACHED IN THE MIDDLE NEXT TO THE OTHER "X" WHO WE ARE NOT
REMOVING.
AFTER THE "X" CONNECTOR IS COMPLETELY REMOVED YOU WILL
GENTLY SLIDE THE SMALLER, FLATTER, SILVERISH HEAT SINK OFF THE
MOTHERBOARD AND WALLAH YOU WILL SEE THE GPU CHIP!
CONGRATS THAT WAS THE SUCKIEST PART WHICH REALLY ISN'T TOO
BAD.
6-2) OKAY now lay the Motherboard on a soft dish towel and start to cover the
parts of the board that are plastic. PLEASE WATCH THE COMPLETE "HEAT
GUN" VIDEO AT THE BELOW LINK. WATCH AND DO EXACTLY WHAT THE
VIDEO SAYS. CLICK BELOW TO WATCH VIDEO.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...ir%20fix&hl=en
6-3) After you watch the complete video, remember to make sure you cover the
motherboard correctly with aluminum foil. Copy it exactly the way it is in the
video and remember when putting on the aluminum foil add a little extra on
the ends so you can fold it underneath the motherboard and it will help so
that the aluminum foil on the top of the motherboard will not move as
much. Any excess aluminum foil on the bottom that covers the square black
little processors just trim back the aluminum foil so that they are exposed when
you first warm up the complete board.
6-4) Do exactly what the video says and when you first heat up the motherboard
watch the video as you are doing it to time yourself (in actual time) as you
are actually heating the motherboard up. THE FIRST SWEEP OF THE HEAT
GUN LAST ABOUT 1 MINUTE. AND KEEP MOVING THE GUN IN BIG
CIRCLES ON THE MOTHERBOARD NOT CONCENTRATING ON THE RAM
GPU AND SOUTHBRIDGE. REMEBER LET THE HEAT GUN HEAT UP FOR
ABOUT A MINUTE OR TWO BEFORE YOU USE IT OKAY?
(I BOUGHT A WAGNER HT 1000 MODEL HEAT GUN FROM SEARS WHICH
WORKED PERFECTLY FOR THIS SITUATION)
6-5) DON'T FORGET TO IMITATE THE VIDEO AND ALSO APPLY THE HEAT
GUN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE MOTHERBOARD WHILE YOU ARE DOING
THE FIRST MINUTE, REMEBER DO EXACTLY LIKE THE VIDEO.
6-6) WHEN YOU DO THE BOTTOM OF THE MOTHERBOARD GRAB THE
GPU HEAT SINK (BASE BOARD LIKE LARGEST PIECE ON MOTHER
BOARD) AND FLIP OVER WITH ONE HAND. ALOT EASIER TO HOLD.
6-7) THEN WHEN THE VIDEO TELLS YOU, HEAT THE RAM, GPU AND
SOUTHBRIDGE AND REMEBER TO KEEP MOVING IN SMALL CIRCLES
AND HEAT FOR ABOUT A MINUTE. AFTER A MINUTE HOLD THE GUN
SLIGHTLY HIGHER FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS AND THEN HIGHER AGAIN
AND KEEP MOVING FOR 30 SECONDS. THAT WILL SLOWLY PUT LESS
HEAT ON MOTHERBOAD AND WILL COOL OFF EVENLY AND SLOW.
6-8) DO NOT TOUCH FOR 30 MUNUTES, DON'T EVEN GO NEAR IT!
(STATIC ELECTRICITY OR ACCIDENTALLY TOUCHING BOARD TILL IT
COOLS IS BAD.)
6-9) DON'T FORGET TO TURN OFF HEAT GUN. IT MIGHT BLOW UP.
7-1) After the Motherboard has cooled for at least 30 minutes remove the
foil gently and then put the smaller, flatter, silverish heat sink back in its
place on Motherboard and take the "x" connector and put it back
identically to the way you took it off. Just look at other "x" connector we
didn't remove and place the "x" over the peg over the heat sink ( tired of
writing smaller, flatter, silverish heat sink) and push firmly one corner at
a time till you hear it click untill all 4 corners of "x" connector is back
attached to heat sink. YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PUSH A LITTLE HARD UNTIL
YOU HEAR THE "X" CONNECTOR SNAP BACK ON TOP OF THE PEG BUT
DON'T WORRY JUST HOLD THE HEAT SINK ON THE OTHER SIDE AT THE
SAME TIME AND DONT HOLD THE MOTHERBOARD WHICH WILL BE
SUSPENDED IN THE AIR AS YOU HOLDING THE HEAT SINK AND THE
CONNECTOR. ONCE ONE PART CLICKS ON FOLLOW WITH THE OTHER
THREE, THIS HAS TO BE PUT BACK ON OTHER WISE 360 WILL NOT
WORK RIGHT.
7-2) Assemble Motherboard back in metal base box 360 and attach all the
screws back in the right places ( remeber the pictures of the screws circled in
yellow and blue? (Follow that.) Make sure the motherbaord is flat and all the
usb connectors and AV connectors (female IN) etc. are flat and can have the
items plugged back into them. ONCE YOU ATTACH ALL THE SCREWS
BACK THE MOTHER BOARD SHOULD LAY FLAT WHERE YOU CAN START
PLUGGING IN THE COMPONENTS LIKE THE POWER ON BUTTON INTO THE
USB LIKE PORT!
7-3) Now put back on Power On Chip board gently and hold the outer edges of
this chipboard and slide back into its slot. You dont have to attach the three
screws you took out with the Power On Chip board. (reference part 5-6) in this
instructional also FIGURE 8 on the webpage you should still have open.
http://www.informit.com/articles/art...&seqNum=2&rl=1
7-4) NOW WE ARE GOING TO TEST THE XBOX 360 WITH OUT PUTTING IT
TOTATLLY BACK TOGETHER. REMEMBER PLUG IN AV HD/TV CORD
FIRST AND THEN POWER. DO NOT TOUCH MOTHER BOARD OR ANY
COMPONENT SO AS NOT TO GET SHOCKED (I DIDN'T GET SHOCKED BUT
I JUST WANT YOU TO BE CAREFUL AND WHEN YOU DISCONNECT
WIGGLE BOTH CORDS STRAIGHT BACK AND OUT.
Reattach the AV cable and the BRICK 360 power cord and press the little
power button with the end of a very small phillips flathead. (that little
button is shown in FIGURE 8 of the webpage right above this paragraph.
Look closely and you will see a little tiny button in between the 4
quadrants.
7-5) Once you press the little power button run for cover that the house is
going to blow ! Just kidding I am writing this at 2 am was a little bored.
NO SERIOUSLY ONCE YOU PRESS THE LITTLE BUTTON TO TEST THE 360
YOU SHOULD GET 4 FLASHING GREEN BUTTONS AND YOU CAN CALL
MICROSOFT AND TELL THEM TO KISS YOUR ASS!!
NOT KIDDING ON THAT ONE !!!!!!
PUT WHOLE SYSTEM BACK TOGETHER THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK APART!!
Why do this when microsoft will repair it free even if yr warrenty has ran out,do a google its good for 3 yrs as its a known prob rings of deathQuote:
Originally Posted by LaPistola
wtf dude. lol. He didnt say 3 red lights, he said no video. And wtf did you quote that long ass shit.
For all that dont know.. if you got a 360 out of warrany... you can get the extended warranty any time after you get your 360. Up to 3 years. So they will repair it. Had mine sent in. Took under 10 days for them to send me the box, send in my 360, and get a new one in the mail.
So dont give up easily.
(oh yea, my 360 was modded when i sent it in. Was able to open it w/o hurting the warranty sticker:shifty:)
I think thats mainly with the older models, the new ones dont seem to have as many problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by towerblocks