Antec P182 PC Case

**mikeco** · 07-26-2007, 01:57 PM

im wanting a new pc case to keep the noise down on my pc and to make it look nicer as mine looks abit cheap.

iv been looking around and really like the P182 for £80.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...d=7&subcat=160

but what im woundering is, will my PSU cables reach from the bottom all the way to the top of the case to power the motherboard, as the square 4pin socket my motherboard has is at the very top of the motherboard.

heres my PSU spec:
http://www.hipergroup.com/English/pr...hpu-4m580.html

P4 on that image is what goes into the top of the motherboard.

what do u guys think?

**lynx** · 07-26-2007, 05:23 PM

You might have said that the PSU was in the lower section.

Allowing for the external fan on top, it can't be more than about 20" from the base of the lower section to the top of the case. That particular cable has 21.7" to the P8 connector plus 5.9" to the P4, plenty IMO.
You can possibly even run that cable out of sight up the back of the case.

I'd be more worried about the length of the main connector at 17.7".

**mikeco** · 07-26-2007, 09:25 PM

Originally Posted by lynx

You might have said that the PSU was in the lower section.

Allowing for the external fan on top, it can't be more than about 20" from the base of the lower section to the top of the case. That particular cable has 21.7" to the P8 connector plus 5.9" to the P4, plenty IMO.
You can possibly even run that cable out of sight up the back of the case.

I'd be more worried about the length of the main connector at 17.7".

can i get an externder for the main connector?
im guessing they're probably cheap so might be worth ordering one to go with it just in case, then i would be able to run it up the back of the motherboard connect the extender there and then have it pop out some where and into the motherboard.

**lynx** · 07-27-2007, 01:44 AM

Before you think of going down that route, check if there is room between the outer panel and the bulkhead separating the upper and lower sections. Looks like it may be a fairly tight fit, and in any case the connector for an extender would have to fit into either that space or behind the motherboard. That seems like an unlikely solution.

**clocker** · 07-27-2007, 01:23 PM

I've built a couple of the original P180s and they are absolutely horrible for cable management. There are also weird, wasted space areas like the "storage compartment", that struck me as gimmicky and ultimately, nonfunctional.
Haven't seen the mods that differentiate the P182 but it still looks to be a PITA.

I also felt that the reputation for a "silent" box was not totally deserved but that's pretty subjective and you can decide for yourself.

If you do need an extender for the ATX cable, here's a trick you can use...
Depin the wires from the plastic blocks (one at a time...it's easier), slide a piece of heatshrink over the wires and plug them together, covering with heatshrink when done. This will eliminate the ungainly plastic blocks and make routing behind the motherboard (if that's what you need to do) much easier.
The process is also completely reversible should the need arise.

**tesco** · 07-27-2007, 01:47 PM

Originally Posted by clocker

If you do need an extender for the ATX cable, here's a trick you can use...
Depin the wires from the plastic blocks (one at a time...it's easier), slide a piece of heatshrink over the wires and plug them together, covering with heatshrink when done. This will eliminate the ungainly plastic blocks and make routing behind the motherboard (if that's what you need to do) much easier.
The process is also completely reversible should the need arise.

Good tip, if I ever need to do that.
How do you get the pins out though, wihtout breaking them?

**clocker** · 07-27-2007, 02:31 PM

Molex pin removal tools.
ATX pin remover.

**Appzalien** · 07-27-2007, 03:48 PM

The pins of a molex plug lock into place because they have a flared out tab that will squeeze inwards when pushed in and then snap back to prevent it from coming out sort of like what the barbs of a fish hook or a spear fishing arrow do (they go in easy enough but coming out is another story). Using a very long and skinny set of needle nose pliers or hemostats you can go in at the actual pins (not behind them) and push the tab or tabs (sometimes one on each side) in enough to pull the pins. Its a little tricky to use the pliers to squeeze and push a little then let go and pull the wire the rest of the way. If there's only one tab you can pull to put pressure on the wire go in by the tab with a jewelers screwdriver and press the tab in.