First driving lesson next week!! Yayyy

[tralalala]

C'mon guys.. never meant it to turn into flaming and stuff..

Oh, come now, Rafi.

I haven't flamed Ava yet; I just want you to be the best driver in all of Israel, and she wants you to be something less, perhaps a social democrat.

Aint that difficult to be a good driver in Israel.. most of them suck.... =\

However, I haven't reached starting a car on an incline... first, I wanna get past the "getting-the-hang-of-the-clutch-accelerator-gearshift-coordination" thingy.. then, I'll take a look at what to do on an incline

[j2k4]

Heel-toe is, as Ava agrees, a racing technique.

It just happens to work rather well in situations such as I have described.

Down-shifting in order to drive more slowly (that is to say, as a method of limiting speed on a downhill) is not what I am talking about relative to what I said previously.

When the intent is to stop, it is better to use the brakes, as to do otherwise puts the wear on the clutch facing and pressure plate, rather than the brake pads.

Passenger car equipment is substantially less durable than racing equipment, and it is for this reason as well as maintenance costs that braking should be favored.

As anyone who has worked as a mechanic knows, replacing brake pads is much less labor- and money-intensive than replacing a clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and re-surfacing a flywheel, especially in FWD/transaxle installations.

For the do-it-yourselfer, brakes are easily repaired/rebuilt in a garage or driveway.

For most people, however, clutch work is for the professionals, who will not usually impart information such as I am; they like to do clutch work, and even more, they like to bill for their services.

Car owners who've paid the tab for such repairs and still don't know this will continue to make the mistake, but now the rest of you have no excuse.

Go forth and brake.

BTW-

All this is not to say there is anything at all wrong with the handbrake method; whatever blows your hair back, right?

[lynx]

Heel-toe is, as Ava agrees, a racing technique.

It just happens to work rather well in situations such as I have described.

Down-shifting in order to drive more slowly (that is to say, as a method of limiting speed on a downhill) is not what I am talking about relative to what I said previously.

When the intent is to stop, it is better to use the brakes, as to do otherwise puts the wear on the clutch facing and pressure plate, rather than the brake pads.

Passenger car equipment is substantially less durable than racing equipment, and it is for this reason as well as maintenance costs that braking should be favored.

As anyone who has worked as a mechanic knows, replacing brake pads is much less labor- and money-intensive than replacing a clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and re-surfacing a flywheel, especially in FWD/transaxle installations.

For the do-it-yourselfer, brakes are easily repaired/rebuilt in a garage or driveway.

For most people, however, clutch work is for the professionals, who will not usually impart information such as I am; they like to do clutch work, and even more, they like to bill for their services.

Car owners who've paid the tab for such repairs and still don't know this will continue to make the mistake, but now the rest of you have no excuse.

Go forth and brake.

BTW-

All this is not to say there is anything at all wrong with the handbrake method; whatever blows your hair back, right?

So, lots of revs and drop the clutch as fast as possible then

Replacing tyres (tires to you) is cheaper than a new clutch too.

[j2k4]

Heel-toe is, as Ava agrees, a racing technique.

It just happens to work rather well in situations such as I have described.

Down-shifting in order to drive more slowly (that is to say, as a method of limiting speed on a downhill) is not what I am talking about relative to what I said previously.

When the intent is to stop, it is better to use the brakes, as to do otherwise puts the wear on the clutch facing and pressure plate, rather than the brake pads.

Passenger car equipment is substantially less durable than racing equipment, and it is for this reason as well as maintenance costs that braking should be favored.

As anyone who has worked as a mechanic knows, replacing brake pads is much less labor- and money-intensive than replacing a clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and re-surfacing a flywheel, especially in FWD/transaxle installations.

For the do-it-yourselfer, brakes are easily repaired/rebuilt in a garage or driveway.

For most people, however, clutch work is for the professionals, who will not usually impart information such as I am; they like to do clutch work, and even more, they like to bill for their services.

Car owners who've paid the tab for such repairs and still don't know this will continue to make the mistake, but now the rest of you have no excuse.

Go forth and brake.

BTW-

All this is not to say there is anything at all wrong with the handbrake method; whatever blows your hair back, right?

So, lots of revs and drop the clutch as fast as possible then

Replacing tyres (tires to you) is cheaper than a new clutch too.

Who said "lots of revs", or "drop the clutch"?

Properly executed, it works as smoothly as on a level surface.

Actual clutch and throttle technique is exactly as usual.

Nothing about it is hard on tires (tyres to you).

[clocker]

For hill starts I leave the handbrake on and pull up the clutch (one hand on the steering wheel on[e] on the handbrake). As the car begins to pull forward I depress the handbrake and move off (lifting the clutch and pressing the accelerator pedal normally once the hand brake is down).

Perfect!

Perfect?
Maybe if you're 13 but anyone who has driven a stick for over 2 weeks and needs to rely on the ebrake seriously needs to reevaluate their coordination skills.
As for downshifting to stop/slow down...j2 got it right.
Replacing brake pads is definitely preferable to replacing the clutch (or even worse, the synchros).
Anyway, if you're doing it right, neither excessive braking or downshifting is even necessary.
The first step when preparing to stop is let off the gas which, for most stickshift cars, causes an immediate and usually sufficient rate of decelleration.

[j2k4]

Perfect!

Perfect?
Maybe if you're 13 but anyone who has driven a stick for over 2 weeks and needs to rely on the ebrake seriously needs to reevaluate their coordination skills.
As for downshifting to stop/slow down...j2 got it right.
Replacing brake pads is definitely preferable to replacing the clutch (or even worse, the synchros).
Anyway, if you're doing it right, neither excessive braking or downshifting is even necessary.
The first step when preparing to stop is let off the gas which, for most stickshift cars, causes an immediate and usually sufficient rate of decelleration.

[Ava Estelle]

Perfect?
Maybe if you're 13 but anyone who has driven a stick for over 2 weeks and needs to rely on the ebrake seriously needs to reevaluate their coordination skills.

Rubbish! When pulling away on a hill\incline you use your handbrake, which, if you're doing the right thing, should be on anyway. You put the car in gear, go to move, and as you feel it push against the handbrake you drop it and move forward. At least that's how drivers do it, clock makers may have another way.

[clocker]

Perfect?
Maybe if you're 13 but anyone who has driven a stick for over 2 weeks and needs to rely on the ebrake seriously needs to reevaluate their coordination skills.

Rubbish! When pulling away on a hill\incline you use your handbrake, which, if you're doing the right thing, should be on anyway.

You're kidding, right?
Why in the world would I engage the parking brake just because I'm waiting on an incline?

[Barbarossa]

to stop yourself rolling back?

[clocker]

That's what balancing on the clutch's engagement point does.
You don't move forward, you don't move back.

You definitely do not engage the ebrake.

I don't believe we're even having this discussion.
Do you guys really put the parking brake on every time you come to a stop sign/light?