It is dangerous. You know that people have died trying to ride these waves. There are professionals out there who do this for living.
It is dangerous. You know that people have died trying to ride these waves. There are professionals out there who do this for living.
I'm only typing with one hand, but yeah people have been killed.
You're typing with 1 hand? PervOriginally Posted by iamtheoneandonlyone
No I don't know anyone who has died surfing, I think at some point we've all come close, I know I have several times.
And these guys don't do it for a living, most of the time they do it cos they want to, the only money to be made is from competition (which they rarely hold at places like Jaws or Mavericks) or from Advertisement, but usually the pics/vids are caught while they having fun.
The thing is with Jaws and Mavericks etc, these waves are too big to paddle into, think about it, a wave that is Too Big to paddle into, this means you can't get enough speed to get to the bottom of the wave before it breaks. This is why they use seado's or jetski's, tow starts to get them upto the 30-40mph before they start riding the wave.
The board is strapped to their feet, these guys hit 8-10ft "Chop" , bouncing off chop in the water which is big enough for a killer wave in itself.
These are an elite few, maybe only 100 people in the world ride these breaks.
This is the common miconception of surfing, very few people ride waves over 15 ft, it is a killer wave, no question. Normal surfers will ride 3-6ft and ocassionally bigger, biggest I been in is 10-12ft, imagine standing on your board at the bottom of a wave and looking up to see it's twice your hieght
Also think about standing on your board at the top of the wave, from your eye level it's an 18ft drop you're about to take
Jonno
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