Spark

[Sasage]

You can just take off the heatsink and fan together, thats what I did.

[Chewie]

Originally posted by jaigandhi5+6 August 2004 - 00:22--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (jaigandhi5 &#064; 6 August 2004 - 00:22)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>

Originally posted by bigdawgfoxx@6 August 2004 - 01:08

Originally posted by Virtualbody1234@5 August 2004 - 17:53
Did you perhaps pinpoint where the board was touching?

Where would the board touch that would hurt it?...need to know for future refrence lol

if you tighten the screws too much the mobo starts touching the metal chasis and the tiny thingies at the back of the mobo hit the chasis....[/b]

Not so. You couldn&#39;t tighten the screws enough to make the bottom of the board contact the case if you used a power drill; the little brass standoffs will keep them apart. Of course, if you didn&#39;t use any standoffs you&#39;d be in trouble but then the ports wouldn&#39;t line up on the back.
No, what&#39;s more common is to leave a standoff from a previous mobo on the mounting panel where there isn&#39;t a hole on a new mobo and having it short across a couple of tracks. I managed this once myself and couldn&#39;t figure out why it didn&#39;t boot in the case but did on a test bench - until I went to put it back in&#33;
Alternatively, but less lkely, there&#39;s the possibility that a foreign object has managed to get between mobo and mounting panel - a misplaced screw or something.

Originally posted by jaigandhi5@6 August 2004 - 00:22
also if i want to remove the HSF now do i have to take the mobo out again?&nbsp;

You don&#39;t have to take the bard out to do it, but I strongly suggest you do.
The Athlon heatsink clips need quite some effort to (dis)engage as you probably noticed, and there is only so much flexing that the mobo&#39;s PCB will take before fracturing. Obviously you can&#39;t gauge how much flexibility there is in a board and you wouldn&#39;t notice a hairline fracture underneath or on an internal layer, so to play it safe take it out and do it on a firm flat surface. I do it on the foam &#39;underlay&#39; and anti-static bag that the board is packaged with.
This is much safer than putting pressure on the board with only 6 or 9 points of support where the standoffs are.

<!--QuoteBegin-jaigandhi5@6 August 2004 - 00:22
btw this is my first time with an AMD&nbsp; [/quote]...but not the last, I hope.

[Spicker]

i have the standoffs but i have no idea where they go

anyone have a pic or something...

why do athlon HS have to be so hard to get out P4 are easier

:helpsmile:


i dont have any standoffs on my p4 either

i found a couple of pix on google.... so they go behind the mobo where the screws go in

i wish i had a removeable mobo tray

then where do i put those round washer thingy


btw the ports lineup :


EDIT: im soo stupid

[Keikan]

44 Degrees C idle

your very lucky my friend my cpu idle temp is 60 what do you think about that

[Spicker]

Originally posted by Keikan@6 August 2004 - 08:37

44 Degrees C idle

your very lucky my friend my cpu idle temp is 60 what do you think about that

that calls for some thermal paste?

anyways once i take the stock heat pad off and put some fresh new thermal greese it should be in the 30s

im probably going to overclock it to 3000+ if the temps are still low ill go for 3200+


i wish i had an amd

[Spicker]

anyways would you guys know the easiest way to remove the HSF?


btw i have the screwdriver clip thingy

[Keikan]

You take a flat head screw driver push down then outwards

[Spicker]

Originally posted by Keikan@6 August 2004 - 08:55
You take a flat head screw driver push down then outwards

sounds easy and good luck with your computer... i see you cant reach speeds of 3200+ but now there you are but ur temps too high

[Keikan]

ya well i hope you got those temps too if its possible

[mattesca]

yes AMD&#39;s kick ass