Yeah bikes let's go with that.
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Incidentally, I know a whole lot about what it feels like to roll with the wrong saddle, and a ~3" too large frame, even, for long-ish runs (20+ miles). Painful.
I rode a vintage racer, anno 1979, fitted with one of these. Oddly enough, that bike is what got me really into riding, this time around. Before it, I'd had a long brake from bikes, and before that I started off with bmx, then went over to mtbs, via standard bikes.
I currently find myself fitting bmx bits to my folding bike, so maybe I'm coming full circle soon.
Looks like I'm going to be measuring my seat bones on some cardboard, sounds strangely exciting.
For reference, here's the front part of the bike.
Attachment 115500
I went and ordered this based on mine being 1 1/8" threadless.
Attachment 115501
It's the first time I thought of a stem raiser as not being a scantily dressed little girl. :ohmy:
If you have your saddle set at what you think is a good height and it isn't above the line that says "Don't raise above this line or you will possibly suffer a painful death " line then your frame should be OK to live with,even if you intended to anyway.
Now how much lower is the top of your handlebars than the top of your saddle? Just curious ,not going to try and make you do anything.
Mine's 10 cm which isn't advisable but then I'm a wank.
Some would say a lot less than that. Bodies aren't cookie cutter though so whateverworks for you works for you.:)
Usually though you start high and adapt. Other than that tourists may have it level or close to because to them comfort is more important than going fast via aerodynamics while pro's have been steadily getting lower year by year.
A couple of inches used to be the rule but now you see 5 or more as often as not.
One - two at the Tour Contador's and Andy Schleck's bikes for instance.
Attachment 115506
Attachment 115505
Used to only see something like that on the track.
Remember in the end you are the only one that knows what is comfortable for you.
Nice front end btw.:)
http://forums.competitor.com/topic/7266
It should be noted though that brake hoods used to set lower on the bars though and as most people spend the majority of their time on the hoods the overall effect probably isn't that much lower than it used to be.
I think eventually I'd be able to get more comfortable with the current height, but right now having to keep my head bent up over 45 degrees was a bit of a pain. I'd like to be able to relax and keep pace upright and not always have to focus on pedaling like an angry demon.
I knew in the end this would be all things exploration, which is why I'm glad I didn't spend too much on my first bike. I could see myself selling this bike and buying one more expensive and attuned to my personal tastes (at which point I'll have a better sense of what that is) a year or so down the road. I'm a creature of strategy and troubleshooting, I can't help but find myself amused to see it enter into every aspect of my life :happy:
If that should put the bar too close for comfort, the next step will be to either switch out the stem for a longer one, or the seatpost for one with more offset.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Thomson-Elite-Setback-Seatpost
or
http://www.jensonusa.com/Profile-Des...rward-Seatpost
For the latter, maybe, if they fit the frame.
I'm just picking stores in the US I've heard of at random, btw. Ordering from the former workplace of bicycle Jesus if you did, though - That is FTW.
Also, I'm liking the Dimension raiser better as well. Two smaller bolts compared to one big one and it's black, and idk about Zoom as a brand. I've seen Zoom bars, seatposts and really shitty suspension forks fitted to very low end department store bikes, and was not impressed. But then again, the same bikes had shimano gearing, so. Dimension makes forks I've seen get good reviews, at least.
edit: Oh, and in that pic it does look a bit as if you could turn the stem upside down. But maybe it's just the angle in which it was taken.
Btw: If you think you'll end up doing a lot of adjustments to your bike, a torque wrench which comes with allen key sockets (and others, ofc) might be worth it. I generally wing it, but if you're gonna do it absolutely properly, different parts often have different tolerances stamped on them, in nm, which you can follow when tightening them.
Other useful things would be a set of allen keys, or maybe two - one with mm measurements, one with inches, and then wire cutters (for gear- and brake cabling), a tube of grease (when joining metal parts together, say pedals to cranks, you put some in between to avoid creaking) and cables ties (useful for all sorts of things). That generally does it for most things bike related. You want tyre tools and a spare tube too, ofc. It's annoying as hell getting home with a puncture and having to walk back and buy new tubes. Also, new tubes aren't expensive, so don't bother with puncture repair kits, imo. And get a pump that works with presta valves.
Another tip is to switch out quick releases for allen key, or similar, ones on the seat clamp and wheels, if you leave the bike locked outside in the city a lot. You shouldn't do that, but still.
I did order from that site. I didn't even know if it was good, but they allowed PayPal and it wasn't too steep a price to experiment.
About the Shimano components, that's the thing with brands, Intel brought to the public both the i7 and the celeron. Essentially it all tends to come down to model since fewer companies stick to a narrow spectrum.
I've taken it apart and there's nothing to turn upside down as far as the stem goes. Maybe I'm just confused about what you mean by that.
P.S. I wish I knew they were marked with the torque specifications, I haven't even bothered to instrumentally match the torque (I've just been using my allen wrenches and I'm usually pretty close to intuiting the force necessary without over-tightening and stretching the bolt).
I meant the whole thing.
Basically, if the stem has an angle, like this:
Attachment 115543
...and it's now angled downwards, you can take the whole thing off, turn it upside down, and get it angling upwards. I'm gonna assume there isn't an angle to it, though, else you'd seen it.
Oh, and speaking of stems, if you really want to tweak stuff around until you know what's right, there are adjustable stems out there as well. They usually look something like this:
Attachment 115578 but the first one is adjustable too.
Oh yeah, no, it's a solid piece protruding in perpendicular fashion. I think my confusion was that I'm only considering the part that comes up from the fork as a stem.
Oh. Yeah. Unless you've got a quill stem or something, that's all the stem there is. It clamps to the steerer tube. Or the stem raiser, when that arrives, which in turn then clamps to the steerer tube, which is part of the fork.
Quill stems, in contrast, go into the head tube (the part of the frame the fork is attached to).
Other parts of the frame are the top tube or tt (the upper tube behind the head tube), the down tube (below the tt), the seat tube (where the seatpost is attached, using the seat clamp), the bottom bracket shell (bb shell) where your cranks (also called crankset or chainset) are attached, often via a separate bb, and the stays, behind the seat tube. You probably know what's what, but just in case.
I understood only enough of that to know why they call it a stem raiser and not a stem extender. Actually, much better in song.
The fork connects to the, steerer tube
The steerer tube connects to the, stem thing
The stem thing connects to the, handle bars
The handle bars connect to the, people hands
The people hands connect to the...
Wow. If I ever suffer from insomnia I'm gonna try and remember this thread...
I'm gonna remember you said that, when next you post stuff about things.
hahahaha :D
Thankfully that hardly ever happens anymore...
I clicked on the new posts thing, saw mary fell off her bike and had tiny ankles but was fat.
That was entertaining.
Then Snee started posting. Snee. He usually makes threads good. Especially when they're already good to begin with (not that this one was, but idr, so.)
But he completely Artified this one.
Yet people posted in it more.
Why :eyebrows:
Whatever, racists.
I'm totally just trying to get Mary up and running on the road so she canget into more accidentsride her new bike.
In retrospect, I apologise. I'm clearly being overly h4r5h.
Mary needs a bike because her tiny ankles can't support her massive bulk and what good is a housebound mature student.
Thanks to the inclusion of a jetpack, this thread is now approximately 125% more awesome.
We probably should make a srs bike thread in sportsworld at some point, though.
Now with added violence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5PZfEDnvzM
Didn't they see the no parking sign?
Anyways, now that you racists have driven mary off, I'm going to have to start grooming some other girl.
All that effort, wasted.
This is a serious sports thread. It can be duplicated in the sportsworld, just remove all of the posts that are mildly entertaining.
Serious answer that you weren't looking for.
Riding in a pack gives following riders very limited forward vision and so they are dependent upon the people in front not doing something very stupid.
So basically lemming,yes.
Doesn't usually happen on cliffs though as on downhills the tendency is spread out more to avoid that sort of thing.
What I thought was funny is that there was a guy lying on the ground apparently injured and everyone else was checking their bikes.
Japanese bottle rocket man > aluminium aficionados falling off bikes.
That is all.
You have no idea but a lot of that can be forgiven because of oxygen debt and adrenaline.
Not so forgivable I've seen a Mom tell her son to stop being such a pussy and get back on his bike and finish the race after the kid fell and broke his collar bone badly enough that you could see the bone displacement through his jersey.
Anyway injuries heal but bikes are expensive.
Note to Mary :Apparently it's not the size of your ankles it's the size of your wallet that matters.:mellow:
Attachment 115703
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz...=feeds-newsxml